My small pocket sized drill and tap chart had become so worn it was time to renew, found some on the net then decided to print a new one up to hang on the shop wall.
Since I'm going through a framing craze made a frame today, then decided to cut a piece of glass I had been saving - it turns out to be safety glass which shattered into tiny fragments. Ended up using museum no glare glass.
If you know the source of your glass and can assure that its not safety glass its easy to cut, if there are any professional glaziers out there I'm sure that they will inform you that my method is not entirely correct.
Using a t-square I scribed the score line, for thicker glass you may want to tap the underside of the score to assist with separation, if your working with stained glass and you have irregular shaped pieces it is always advisable to tap the underside of the score.
Your irregular shaped pieces of stained glass the scores are done freehand.
On straight cuts, bring the score mark over a sharp edge where your now going to give the overhanging piece a very quick push, like magic the glass separates on the score, wear safety goggles and gloves.
If you have to grind the glass to fit, use a carborundum stone on your grinder they come in many different grits. The preferable way to grind is wet, if dry keep the piece moving as not to generate to much heat.
My favourite glass cutter has an oil filled handle which lubricates the cutting wheel, it's been a few years since I last seen that cutter. When your scoring the glass pit even firm pressure onto the cutter, never make a second pass.
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