Here's a tip to save blades when cutting thick metal with the Sawzall-- Don't use full speed, it will overheat the blade and burn it, basically softens the teeth until the melt down into a smooth blade which is useless, needs to have sharp teeth. Go slower on the tool speed. Also what i find to help is to cut with one portion of the blade, then pull the tool back and let a different part of the blade do the cutting for a moment, then switch back, this keeps the heat spread out a little to cut back on the first problem I mentioned. I've been using Sawzall's for years to cut all kinds of metal for fabrication, couple years ago I added a Chop-Saw to my fleet, that was a great addition but nearly useless for scrapping. A grinder with a cut off wheel is a great tool to have, but the cut off wheels don't last long on thicker/heavier metal. You might pickup a cheapie grinder for $20 somewhere, name brand ones run $50+, but the cheap ones are well worth the money and generally are not too disappointing given the cost. Given the rotary action, they are handy for cutting things the sawzall just wants to push and pull if it grabs too hard. Also, we have successfully cut sheet metal siding with a blade for the Skil Saw that is a metal blade with slots cut from the outside of the circle toward the center, odd looking blade but works great for metal siding, if you needed to cut through the thin sheets of siding that works great, blade last a long time. The blade you have on your Skil saw is an abrasive style blade like a Chop Saw, I can't see it working too well on a Skil Saw but it might not be too bad for thin sheet.
Good luck
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