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    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabemechanic View Post
    I've never heard of this, is there somewhere you recommend reading more about it?
    Here you go, they help explain all the quackery;
    K&J Magnetics - Fuel Magnets



    Describe to me how a fixed thing like rotations per minute changes?
    Should not happen with a lock up torque converter
    Cause tucking in behind the semi will "pull" your vehicle along. If you get close enough you could theoretically take your hand off the wheel and foot off the throttle. Do not try this at home. When you can lessen your wind drag by 40% safely then something's working. http://www.treehugger.com/cars/draft...s-it-work.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanic688 View Post
    Here you go, they help explain all the quackery;
    K&J Magnetics - Fuel Magnets
    Reading that, they don't sound too sure of it themselves, but of course if someone wants to buy something you can make there is no reason not to, haha. To my understanding though, the nature of hydrocarbons such as gasoline renders them essentially "non-polar," which is why they separate from water (which is polar, meaning that each molecule has basically a positive and negative end). To me it doesn't make any sense... Is there anyone that can direct me otherwise?
    Last edited by wannabemechanic; 12-20-2012 at 02:11 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by corycouch View Post
    the only way a 5.9 will get good milage is if its a cummins, ive had two of the gas burners 13.0 emtpy no matter how easy you drive, diesel i get 16 mpg pulling a trailer 95% of the time and half of that time has a car on it.
    Ditto. 91.5 intercooled 4x4 here.

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    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    If you do a lot of highway driving then you might consider an overdrive unit, they used to add on behind the transmission. Back when I hauled campers over the road the unit was built by Doug Nash Overdrives. This seems to be the main one now. It is switchable, and looks to change the gearing 25-28%. You can get it as an over or under.
    Gear Vendors under/overdrive transmissions the most awarded auxiliary transmissions.

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    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire. Second is intake system upgrades. Exhaust is next. If you have a pickup truck i would do a cold air intake and a chip at the very least. Diesels will make big gains with a tuner module alone.
    I buy and sell all types of scrap and escrap. I buy specialty and hard to sell escrap. I buy resale items. PM me or contact me at jghilino@hotmail.com
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by jghilino View Post
    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire.
    Running 75 psi on a 10 ply 16" tire on something like a Ford ranger would be a bit much when it's empty. the amount of air pressure always depends on the weight it carries, so I dont feel like a Cookie cutter answer like 5 psi less than the tire is rated for to be an adequate answer. Not trying to start anything here but I've done 95% of my own tire repairs and been a tire tech for 4 years so I know a few things about tires.
    Last edited by taterjuice; 12-11-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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    newc33 is offline Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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    coasting

    Coasting to stop signs and lights and using as little breaking as possible is one of the best ways.

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    I try not to keep excessive scrap weight in the bed too long. If you have the means keep the excess weight out, I've worked a setup out where I can unload every day into my trailer. Trailer gets hauled to the yard when its full. Hope that helps.

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    1996 C70 Straight Truck, with a 366 motor, five speed split gears, dump bed, Pfft, be lucky to get 10 miles per gallon.
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    Load em heavy as hell when your driving that brute down the road

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    Try a Throttle body spacer or a Regulator plate. I got a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 and most of the time I have been getting 13mpg. I just got 15 when I babied it. Try a tonneau cover aswell

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    tedanderson is offline Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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    Larger tires gave me an extra 5-7 gallons per tank.. or to be more specific, TALLER tires gives me results. I just have to be careful with my speed until I change out the speedometer gear because I am actually going faster than what the needle reads.

    So technically a taller tire gets me a further distance for every revolution of the wheels which adds up after a few hundred miles. I figure that going from the 215-75-15's to the 235-75's adds another 10-12 mph to my actual speed which translates to the higher distance/mileage per tank.

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    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    What you did Ted was lowered your RPM a few hundred.

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    I always look for a tractor trailer to draft behind . I use a 04 GMC Sierra 1500 to go back and forth from the house to the shop(84 mile round trip) truck is all stock, gets 20/22mpg if you keep it at 65mph, runs around 1800rpm. If i draft behind a tractor trailer i can drop my rpm to 1550 and still keep it at 65mph.
    'There is two kinds of people in this world, One opens his wallet and pays for it, and the other opens his toolbox and fixes it' Quote from my grandfather, A quote me and my father live by.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skrRecycling View Post
    I always look for a tractor trailer to draft behind . I use a 04 GMC Sierra 1500 to go back and forth from the house to the shop(84 mile round trip) truck is all stock, gets 20/22mpg if you keep it at 65mph, runs around 1800rpm. If i draft behind a tractor trailer i can drop my rpm to 1550 and still keep it at 65mph.
    Describe to me how a fixed thing like rotations per minute changes?
    Should not happen with a lock up torque converter

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    I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with a 5.9 Magnum HEMI V8 and I get 14.6 MPG. The 2007 Ford F-150 4x2 with a 5.4 Triton V8 that I had prior would get excellent gas mileage for a truck - anywhere from 22 to 25 MPG. I DO NOT suggest tailgating Semi's, however I do like it when I get behind them on the highway at a reasonable distance. You can really see a difference!
    Last edited by SladeMcCuiston; 12-19-2012 at 11:58 PM.

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    I use a mini-van. It's purple. It's like being inside a raisin. Also, like said a few posts above..if i got scrap, its unloaded at the house, till my next trip to the yard. Ewaste goes straight in to my shop. Tires kept up, maintenance, etc.


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    just install a flux capacitor, they work great.

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    google hydro xi. and hydrogen generator. easy to build and they work. easy to get 25 % increase in mileage. Water for gas is another site.
    "anyone who thinks scrappin is easy money ain't doin it right!"

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    NWOdrudge is offline Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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    Quote Originally Posted by jghilino View Post
    regular maintenance first, if your behind on that get that done. Next thing is psi in the tires. I ignore the manufacturers ratings on the car and go 5 pounds less than what it says on the side of the tire. Second is intake system upgrades. Exhaust is next. If you have a pickup truck i would do a cold air intake and a chip at the very least. Diesels will make big gains with a tuner module alone.
    wouldn't that create more friction with more tire touching the road reducing mpg?

    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    I try not to keep excessive scrap weight in the bed too long. If you have the means keep the excess weight out, I've worked a setup out where I can unload every day into my trailer. Trailer gets hauled to the yard when its full. Hope that helps.
    i heard every 100lbs reduces mpg by 2%. i don't know if that number is an accurate measurement but clearly hauling anything that isn't necessary is costing you money.

    someone else mentioned using less break and coasting to stop lights. this is the easiest and one of the best ways to reduce fuel consumption imo.

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