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Silver contacts?

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  1. #1
    jlcross started this thread.
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    Silver contacts?

    Does anyone have an easy way to remove the silver contacts from circuit breakers? Have searched but can't seem to find any ideas on this.



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    etack's Avatar
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    you need to use a torch. don't melt the contact If ti's a house breaker they are made most of the time with tungsten oxide and silver so you can't melt them. heat the back of the contact and when hot enough tap into a can of scrape it off with the edge of a can. If you are having them refined it is worth while to see if your refiner would use the #2 copper from the breakers. this will ensure that the silver solder is able to reclaimed and will increase the yield. If you are selling them than this is not a concern. If you want them refined see my signature line as I can help you.

    Eric
    I buy Tantalum Capacitors and offer other services. Check out my thread for more info.

    http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...-cap-more.html

    http://recycletantalumcapacitors.com/

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    NobleMetalWorks's Avatar
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    Also, if they are the larger contacts be careful not to heat them up to the point smoke evolves because there very well could be cadmium associated with the silver contacts. On the larger ones, cadmium is used to prevent scoring/scaring if the electricity arks. And cadmium is not a very healthy thing to breath. It can prove to be deadly.

    Scott
    At the heart of science is an essential balance between two seemingly contradictory attitudes--an openness to new ideas, no matter how bizarre or counterintuitive they may be, and the most ruthless skeptical scrutiny of all ideas, old and new. This is how deep truths are winnowed from deep nonsense. -- Carl Sagan

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    wannabemechanic's Avatar
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    I tried this tonight (outside of course), heating to increasing temperatures on each attempt, but even getting them red hot, the silver part wouldn't come off of the copper with prying even. Am I doing something wrong, or is it just the contacts that I have?


    PS Getting frustrated and beating on one with a hammer, though quite cathartic.... doesn't work either for separating them.

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    etack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabemechanic View Post
    I tried this tonight (outside of course), heating to increasing temperatures on each attempt, but even getting them red hot, the silver part wouldn't come off of the copper with prying even. Am I doing something wrong, or is it just the contacts that I have?


    PS Getting frustrated and beating on one with a hammer, though quite cathartic.... doesn't work either for separating them.
    Can you post a pic of the Cu and contact with something next to it to compare size too. I was frustrated the first few times. I wasn't giving it enough heat.


    Eric

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    gustavus is offline Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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    I get a lot if silver plated contacts from electric ranges and washing machines and the like, one time I stood my bench grinder on a peice of 2 x 6 planking to keep it dry. This sat in a water proof wooden box that I had made, then added an inch of water for a pump used an old aquariium air pump to circulate the water over the grinder wheel..

    The aquarium pump is a diaphram pump which will handle air or liguids, anyhow in my spare time I owuld sit and listen to tunes and grind off the silver which would collect in the box below the grinder. This works great for those plated contacts and those too small for a torch.

    When I had the hammer mill I would feed it whole circiut breakers the silver would settle to the bottom of the bucket with a bit of coaxing, shaking the bucket.

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    wannabemechanic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etack View Post
    Can you post a pic of the Cu and contact with something next to it to compare size too. I was frustrated the first few times. I wasn't giving it enough heat.


    Eric


    Size reference is a 1905 Barber Half, just for fun. The top two are mounted on plated brass, while the remaining six are Copper. I don't think it's a sufficient heat issue, I heated a Cu one red hot a couple times, and a brass one kind of melted ....

    Sorry for the pic quality, it's from my phone.

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    etack's Avatar
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    when I heat them I like to tap them on something to jar them some, or use a screwdriver to flick them off. It seems to help. Remember to heat the back not the contact.

    thoes contacts run about 0.55-0.75 apiece in silver.

    Eric

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    wannabemechanic's Avatar
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    Unfortunately I did all that already with no results, heat from the back, tap, pry, beat with hammer (they are quite malleable when they're hot, go figure :-P)... I might just leave them intact. If they have about $.55- $.75 in silver in them, then I can prolly to expect to get about $.35- $.55 for them a piece, or would it be less?

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    jghilino's Avatar
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    Well you could get those off with a dremel, but it wont be fun, you probably go thru $2 worth of discs so it wouldnt be worth it. Just save them up and sell them off on ebay at some point when you have alot. I wouldnt sell them at brass price or you looking at $1.50 pound. Save them up and sell them to a refiner you could probably get 30 cents each if theyre saying there worth in the .55-75 range
    I buy and sell all types of scrap and escrap. I buy specialty and hard to sell escrap. I buy resale items. PM me or contact me at jghilino@hotmail.com
    I AM ACTIVELY BUYING ESCRAP OF ALL TYPES. BOARDS, RAM, CPUS AND MUCH MORE

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    wannabemechanic's Avatar
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    If I leave them on the Cu/brass, would it be better to leave them "long" or to cut them off next to the solder?

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    jghilino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabemechanic View Post
    If I leave them on the Cu/brass, would it be better to leave them "long" or to cut them off next to the solder?
    cut them off close to the solder, it will improve the yield per pound and reduce the shipping weight

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    jghilino's Avatar
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    try taking 2 pairs of pliers or a pair of pliers and a cutter to break off the excess metal, you can use tin snips on the thin metal. There is no reason to use a grinder on those.

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  20. #14
    etack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabemechanic View Post
    If I leave them on the Cu/brass, would it be better to leave them "long" or to cut them off next to the solder?
    If you want them refined don'y cut them off. It is then harder to remove the Cu with a torch and will cost you more. This will also reduce the amount you will get from Ebay as people see that and bid even lower.

    Eric

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    jghilino's Avatar
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    i processed some circuit breakers today and i was able to break the contact tips off some of them with needle nose pliers. Other ones i just trimmed. Guess whem im up to a few pounds i will break them down further with a heat gun. Whats the value per pound of clean contacts?

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    etack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jghilino View Post
    i processed some circuit breakers today and i was able to break the contact tips off some of them with needle nose pliers. Other ones i just trimmed. Guess whem im up to a few pounds i will break them down further with a heat gun. Whats the value per pound of clean contacts?
    That's not real easy to answer. the way you are described is in house breakers. those are most likely AgWO(silver tungsten oxide). Those run about 40% Ag if you were to sell them you should expect 60% of ASW(actual silver weight) 453g * 40%= 181g (ASW) *60%= 108.7g / 31.1 * spot (29.96)= $104.73 is what you can expect. If you cut off the buss bar and don't remove it expect to be paid less for the work you are making for the refiner.

    remember waffle backs are worth around 40% ASW and others run as a mix 80% or better ASW

    AgWO contacts cost more to run cause they are harder to work with they take two to three times as long to dissolve and half as much silver.

    Not all refiners have the same payout and this is what is common on buying out right not with toll refining.

    Eric

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  25. #17
    jghilino's Avatar
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    etack heres what ive prepared so far, this is from about 15 breakers. Most of them are the fpe stab lok brand made back in the 1950's. I still have another 50 breakers to process. Are these 40%/60% as you mentioned above or are these a different yield?


  26. #18
    etack's Avatar
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    jghilino what you have pictured looks to be AgWO contacts running at around 40%. This is a pic of the waffle back I am talking about. you can see this in your pics in the bottom right hand corner. Also please remember that with any contact there are TWO contacts.



    If you want those removed from the buss bar use a torch. A heat gun will not work you need a torch that is high BTU propane or oxy Acetylene. Over the summer I did some test on home breakers around 200# and found them to run around $1.00# They are a lot of work if you don't have a ball mill. The Cu per was next to nothing about $40.00 in Cu. with some shred mix in and a touch of Al. If you have the time they are a nice bonus.


    Eric
    Last edited by etack; 12-23-2012 at 04:54 PM. Reason: added pics/ spelling

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    when the funds/time allows i will get more breakers processed and get a mapp gas torch

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    etack's Avatar
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    I wanted to post some other pics of contacts

    thees are AgWO The bigger ones are from 480V breakers the smaller are from 220-110 home breakers



    480V breaker



    80% Ag or better contacts larger ones from larger breakers.


    Eric


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