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  1. #1
    cyberdan started this thread.
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    2nd version of - I am building electric wire stripper and need help.

    The first one started quite a while ago and got completly sidetracked.

    Still working on an electric wire stripper that just smashes the insulation and the copper falls out.
    I bought this jewelers wire mill. It is manual crank. 2.25 revolutions of crank turms the rollers one revolution.

    Very slow so I decided to add a motor. As a scrapper I was given two of these. Both have parts missing but the motors work.


    I pulled one motor and bought two pullies and a belt to connect the mill to the motor.
    The motor is 1750 RPM and with the pullies and then the gears I believe I get the rollers to go about 350 RPM still way too fast and the gears make a racket.

    I want to reduce the speed much more. I bought this varible speed govenor on amazon. They even advertised that it would be good for woodworking equipment. It did not work at all to slow down the motor.


    So this is where I am at now. Does the capaciter start have anything to do with it not slowing down.?
    Any opinions on what to get?

    None of these photos are mine. all borrowed off the internet. This forum will still not let me upload any photos.
    Here I am cyberdan, at yardsales I am dollardan


  2. #2
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    Mabey you can rig up a trigger from a old power drill??? then you can control the rmp's like when your using the drill??? i dont know i just thought of that for speed controll

  3. #3
    cyberdan started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by greytruck View Post
    Mabey you can rig up a trigger from a old power drill???
    That is what the red box in my last photo was supposed to do. There are different types of motors.

    I have about given up on electronically controlling the final RPM. I think I will get an extra set of pulleys. one big and one small. I already have the timing belts with teeth. and just place them between the motor and the mill. (2 sets of pulleys to slow down 1750 motor RPM.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberdan View Post
    Does the capaciter start have anything to do with it not slowing .
    Indirectly yes, when the motor is dead still a set of contact points will first energize the start capacitor, once the motor reaches a certain RPM centrifugal force opens the contacts.

    The motor is now running on the run windings.

    Gear reducer or pulleys is the only method used to control the final drive rpm on the type of AC motor your trying to use.

    AC/DC electric motors called universal motors used on portable drills will have brushes that run on a commutator. Dayton makes a gear drive which is easy to control the RPM using a speed reducer.

    IMO the Dayton would be ideal for your application.

    Or you could use an electric motor from a modern washing machine, the newer machines use a 3 phase electric motor in combination with an inverter 110 volts to 3 phase which will be one of the electronic boards inside the machine.

    The electronics from the machine are discarded, from eBay you can purchase a variable frequency controller..






  5. #5
    cyberdan started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    Indirectly yes, when the motor is dead still a set of contact points will first energize the start capacitor, once the motor reaches a certain RPM centrifugal force opens the contacts.
    What you just said is kind of what I thought. I could probably go out and buy what I am building, or convert my regular wire stripped for that $400 in parts you showed. Already have $200 invested in the one I am building. Pulleys and belts are not cheap.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberdan View Post
    What you just said is kind of what I thought. I could probably go out and buy what I am building, or convert my regular wire stripped for that $400 in parts you showed. Already have $200 invested in the one I am building. Pulleys and belts are not cheap.

    Thanks
    The 3 phase washing motor would be free to you from scrap as is the tread mill motor. It's the electronic boards that go faulty.

    Personally I would repurpose a tread mill motor..

    I agree belts of pulleys are expensive.

    The last time I had parts cut the shop charged me $250.00, pulley was another $100.00, gasoline engine was a dump find, maybe $10.00 worth of welding rod.

    To purchase a commercially made 14 inch centrifuge would have set me back thousands of dollars, when you can make your own for fraction of the cost it puts a smile on yer face.

    Don't give up so easily, my father once told me that it would cost me to get an education but nothing to pack it around with me. A failed project is part of learning.

  7. #7
    cyberdan started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    I agree belts of pulleys are expensive. The last time I had parts cut the shop charged me $250.00, pulley was another $100.00,
    I guess my idea of expensive is different than yours. The belt company has a $35 minimum so I bought three different sizes at about $12 each (each size is slightly bigger) The pulleys are also about $12 each. (4 needed) I also havd to buy two pillow block bearings and a bearing shaft.

    Mine are probably a lot smaller than what you have. The biggest pulley is about 4" across and on the motor about 1" across. (everything is in millimeters and can't remember those sizes) The distance from one pulley to another is about 5"

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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberdan View Post
    I guess my idea of expensive is different than yours. The belt company has a $35 minimum so I bought three different sizes at about $12 each (each size is slightly bigger) The pulleys are also about $12 each. (4 needed) I also havd to buy two pillow block bearings and a bearing shaft.

    Mine are probably a lot smaller than what you have. The biggest pulley is about 4" across and on the motor about 1" across. (everything is in millimeters and can't remember those sizes) The distance from one pulley to another is about 5"

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  10. #9
    cyberdan started this thread.
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    Thanks for the video. Use what you have lying around.

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    We went on a landfill excursion today, came home with two treadmill motors, going for a third tomorrow.


  12. #11
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    By the time we got to the landfill they had pushed the treadmill into the metal pile, Milwaukee to the rescue.

    This is number three.


  13. #12
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    Fourth tread mill, I'm going to repurpose this one into a Miller table on steroids. More details maybe gleaned from Ammen's book on Refining Precious Metals Wastes = page 27.

    Changing the direction of the DC motor was as easy as swapping a couple of wires on the power board.

    This is the first tread mill I've seen with a keyway milled into the motor shaft so it can be run in reverse with out the drive pulley coming off.

    If your pulley is threaded on just use permanent locktite to keep it secured in place.





    Last edited by alloy2; 09-04-2022 at 12:08 PM.

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    Recently started using cyanide to strip gold plated fingers and pins, this treadmill will make the perfect barrel roller. Just need to find smaller drums.


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    Took a load to the landfill this morning and came home with a truck load of computers.




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