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  1. #41
    eesakiwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadarbr549 View Post
    this is slightly off subject but i used to deliver for big sandy furniture when i was laid off to pick up extra cash.i remember when it was below 32 degrees we were required to tell folks to wait till the tv sat in a room at room temp for 24 hours befor they even plugged it in.i am sure these tv,s were not liquid cooled.i always thought it had something to do with possible condensation im not sure.i just no it was our policy to tell them not to use them for 24 hours
    The thick glass front of the screen would have gotten real cold. Real real cold. If the TV was used, the rear thinner funnel part of then screen would have heated up to the usual temp while the front would still be cold.
    There's a glass seam where the front joins the funnel.

    The tubes got a vacuum in it. In theory the tube is under a of of pressure from the atmosphere. A LOT of pressure....

    Now that seams got a lot of pressure on it, that pressure means energy. Now if the funnel expands and the fronts still cold, the join is the weak point and the tube will crack on the join.

    That's when everything goes to hell in a split second.

    You know the Arcoroc cups and dinner plates? Made from safety glass.. You may have seen one of these explode.

    Its because the glass itself is under pressure because they heat it up to red heat and suddenly cool it down. The outside cools quicker and then that puts pressure on the internal hot glass and when its cold the pressures still there. (I know someone who operates one of these kilns for window glass).
    All you have to do is scratch the outside of the glass to weaken its integrity, this causes a weak spot and suddenly all the energy is released and the cup explodes.

    The same with car windows, they shatter into thousands of peices. For some reason crockery and ceramic will do this without any effort at all if they scratch the glass.

    Back to the CRT TV, the join between the two glass peices cracks, the vacuum energy takes over and the screen explodes.
    No, I did not say 'Cracks'. I said EXPLODES!!!
    From flakes to 3 inch long shards flying everywhere with force. Just like a hand grenade, this glass will slice flesh like butter, actually worse.
    It will take out anything within 15 feet.

    That's why you should always be carefully with screens and release the vacuum pressure before scrapping them down.

    I, using glasses and should be wearing a face shelf protecting my neck and full arm coverings, maybe a blanket over the exposed rear of the screen.
    Then I grab the board that's plugged to the rear of the screen, like a cars steering wheel with both hands and twist it like I am turning a corner so it breaks the screen where the wires go into it.
    At that point you can hear the air rush into the screen, I like a fast rush rather than a long slow whistle. The faster the quicker the screens up to normal pressure inside and the less chance of it going BANG.




    Now, how did I find this out?
    Experience.....
    I had placed a 29 inch CRT screen face down on a waist height rubbish bin and decided to lever off the steel band around the screen with a screwdriver....

    Stupid move.

    I had not released the pressure inside the screen. And the screwdriver blade broke the screen directly on the join.
    It EXPLODED!!!

    I can still see the pressure wave that came off the screen... And a circle of broken screen glass shards 15 feet in diameter, like square sharp tapered icicles inch to 3 inch long.
    There was a section of the circle missing from behind where I was standing, I hardly had any glass on me and I still cannot believe that I never got badly cut, let alone still have eyesight......
    The energy tied up in that vacuum is phenomenal.

    Never underestimate the damage that the vacuum inside the screen can do.
    Do not tell anyone who is not actively doing CRTs, as information in the hands of idiots is more dangerous than the idiots themselves.

    Oh, and don't pick up the CRT screens by the steel band. Its often loose and the screen will drop out of it.

    I know TV repairmen use a thick heavy, like lead lined heavy, blanket to cover the screen while putting them into the TV, or replacing them.
    They also get taught about the vaccum. Unless you see it happen, you really have no full idea on what it can do.
    But never try and find out either.
    Its all to do with the weak point where the join is under the steel band.
    Last edited by eesakiwi; 12-04-2015 at 03:55 AM.

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  3. #42
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    Great info eesakiwi. I've only seen them break inside of a container like a trash can, and even then they were small screens. I've helped clean up broken screens on a friends curb too. What a bloody mess they make if there isn't something to stop the shrapnel.


    Fill a glass cup with ice water, then touch it with a torch. The glass will shatter.

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrDowntown View Post
    Okay, here's my first post. I registered just so I could share this.

    As a prelude to my post, I must say that this site is not very mobile friendly at all. It took me at least six attempts to get registered, even though I double checked my registration info... and then when I finally got myself registered; every time I tried to log in, it returned a dead link error. I had to switch to my laptop, and find the thread again just to post here.

    You can thank me for my persistence another time. (joke)

    I know this is an old thread, and from the looks of it, it is dead. But it is also one of the first results I found when attempting to discover the true nature of what the liquid inside the projectors truly is. I have broken down at least 50 of these TVs on the side of the road over the years to harvest the lenses, and cast reservoirs.

    If you remove the front speaker cover, there is access to the screws that hold the screen onto the front of the tv, as well as an access panel to pull the whole electronics out of the TV in one piece. You may have to remove a couple screws at the bottom in the rear to allow the assembly to slide out of the TV too. If you do it properly, you can gut the TV roadside in around 10-15 minutes once you get the hang of it.

    I salvage the screens for the plexiglass, the electronics for the wicked magnifying lenses, aluminum, copper, and gold.

    This brief tutorial is only for how to disassemble the older style projection TVs with the liquid filled reservoirs, and the large bulb assemblies. The process to break down the newer style TVs with the small lenses is quite different, and I haven't found enough of them roadside yet to be able to write an disassembly guide by rote.

    ----------------

    When you find these TVs, and scrap them, here are some pointers.

    Remove the four screws that hold the lens set (twelve total for all three lenses). Do not remove the screws that hold the plate below the lens yet. Doing so will allow the colored lens to unseat, and leak, leaving you with a big oily mess to clean up. These four screws will either be 1/4", or 8mm usually.

    Now with a good set of insulated diagonal cutters, snip all of the wires that lead to the bulbs, and the circuit boards attached to the bulbs.

    Drop your snips, and go back to the top side with the screws. Remove the four screws that hold the cast aluminum heat sink/fluid reservoir to the steel mount (again, twelve screws). They are either 1/4", 5/16", or 8mm.

    If you follow these steps, this will allow you to remove the whole bulb assembly, circuit board and all. This will make disassembly safer, and easier.

    Grab yourself a tray to catch fluid spillage so you don't stain your concrete, or work table. I use an old metal shelf from a store rack that is large enough to set all three bulbs in a line, or an old cooking sheet dedicated to garage use, and do them one at a time.

    Now that you have your bulbs free from the steel mount, but still attached to the sealed reservoir, set the bulb down with the colored lens facing down. It's time to safely remove your windings without breaking that mercury filled bulb (mercury is poisonous to breathe, ingest, or have on your skin. It is also environmentally harmful).

    Wiggle the circuit board free from the tip of the bulb by gently rocking it side to side while pulling lightly. There may be plastic clips to hold it to the windings, if there is, just snip the clips with your diagonal cutters to make it easy. Usually there is no clips though. The board should come of easily. If it doesn't wiggle off easily, look and make sure there is no retaining clip, or hose clamp. Occasionally I encounter these assemblies with a third hose clamp there, but generally there isn't one on the circuit board attachment.

    Toss the circuit board aside to pull the aluminum heatsink off later.

    Now there will be two hose clamps on the bulb that need to be removed. They are usually 8mm, or a phillips. I like to use my handy 8mm nut driver, because it makes it easier. Loosen the two hose clamps, but leave them on until you have the windings free of the bulbs for simplicity.

    Now that your hose clamps are loose, gently twist the plastic clip with the small winding that is in between the large winding, and the circuit board. You should be able to now slip it off of the bulb with ease. Then gently twist the large winding, until it moves a little, and you should be able to slip this too off of the bulb without breaking the bulb, and turning your work space into a hazardous waste dump. Toss the windings aside for later.

    now that you have all of the electrical components off of the bulb, turn the bulb on its side, and look at the cast aluminum reservoir. There should be one or two screws on the side of it, and a rubber bubble (often covered by a piece of plastic with enough room to stick a finger through).

    Get your container that you are going to store the liquid in, a funnel, and some gloves (I prefer a pair of disposable nitrile, but if you have rubber kitchen gloves for garage use, you can always wash the oil off of them with some dawn soap and water). It's time for the fun part. Put your container, and funnel in your overspill tray that you are working on.

    Turn the bulb, and reservoir on its side so that the screws are facing up. Remove the screw(s) on the side of the reservoir, and then with it still facing up, pick up the whole assembly, and flip it over your funnel. A little fluid will come out before the vacuum stops the flow. That is where the rubber bubble comes into play.

    Stick your finger in the hole, and massage the bubble while holding your bulb over the funnel. This will make it draw air into the reservoir, allowing more fluid to escape. Keep massaging until the fluid stops draining. You won't get 100% of it out, but you will get enough out that cleaning your catch tray isn't so bad.

    You can now set the bulb back down with the colored lens facing down, and remove the spring bolts, or screws with brackets that hold the bulb to the reservoir. Once they are free, you can gently pry the bulb free of the reservoir with a stiff putty knife, or wide blade gasket scraper (I don't recommend a screwdriver, as I have chipped or broken them with one. A wide blade is better).

    Set your bulb aside in your catch tray, or take it right to your storage bin, and try not to break it while putting it in the bin. Do not throw them in the regular trash. They require special pickup, and the mercury inside can be recycled by a professional. There are places you can mail them to, or hang onto them until your counties hazardous waste day (check with your local collection service to find out when it is). Don't turn your landfill into a hazmat scene if you can avoid doing so.

    You should now be able to flip the reservoir over so the colored lens faces up. Remove the screws from the steel mounting plate. There can be anywhere from four to eight screws depending on the model of the TV. They are either 1/4", or 8mm again.

    When you remove the screws, and the plate, you are in the home stretch. All that is left is to pop the colored lens free, toss it aside, and remove the rubber gaskets from the reservoir.

    Voila! No hazardous waste running all over your workspace, shop, or skin. No poisonous mercury in your lungs, or on your skin.

    Toss the funnel in your catch pan, put the cap back on your container, and wrap the lid of the container with some color coded electrical tape so that you remember whats in the container. Use a marker, and a piece of masking tape to write what is in the container on the side of the container.

    To clean the little bit of spillage from your catch tray, hopefully it's not much if you were careful. Sop up the bulk of it with some paper towels, or rags that you can dispose of. Take your tray to the yard, or your shop sink, and wash it out with some dawn soap, and water. Good as new, and the soap breaks down the oil to a less harmful state.

    If you did this right, you should have little to no spillage of the fluid, sealed containers full of the liquid, and sealed bulbs, that can all be disposed of in a safe, and proper manner for them to be recycled in a safe manner.

    -------

    Happy Scrapping,
    -Charlie

    P.S. Don't dump the liquid, break the bulbs, or toss any of it in your regular trash collection. If you are not willing to dispose of it properly, then leave the TV for someone who will dispose of it properly.

    Footnote(s):

    If you do happen to break a bulb, bag it up in a couple plastic grocery bags double or triple bagged, and tie it off to prevent further mercury contamination.

    I do not know if it is acceptable to pour it into waste oil collection containers. Find out who collects your local waste oil from places like the auto parts stores/oil change places, and contact them to find out if it acceptable waste oil.

    I couldn't edit the original post a second time to include this, but I've encountered another heatsink style today that came out of an ancient RCA projector. It had the rubber bubble, but no drain plug in it. Conveniently, it had a round spot with a lip that I could drill out on the opposite side of the bubble, so I just punched a small hole in the case with the cordless drill, and did the bubble massage trick to get a steady stream of fluid out of it; rather than remove the bubble, and have it glug glug out making a mess. Removal of the lenses was essentially the same once the guts were out, but it was much more difficult to remove the guts from the tv in the first place. I think it took me about 20 minutes on the roadside, and I had to remove all of the screws from the back of the tv, and all of the screws from the front to access the rack in the middle. I was probably around 40 screws total, and they were all pan head torx instead of the usual hex/phillips combination screws on the more modern ones.

  5. #44
    DakotaRog's Avatar
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    Interesting read. Lots of information there.

    I don't think someone hanging around 10-20 minutes on the side of the street taking apart and then leaving most of the tv would good over well in my area. Maybe some landowners would allow it but they usually want the whole thing gone not just someone playing inside of the machine. Why don't you do the landowner a favor and take the whole thing home, strip it of what you want, break down the rest and throw it away in your own trash (that's what I do). Maybe a different culture where you live bur roadside stripping probably not well looked upon here...

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by DakotaRog View Post
    Interesting read. Lots of information there.

    I don't think someone hanging around 10-20 minutes on the side of the street taking apart and then leaving most of the tv would good over well in my area. Maybe some landowners would allow it but they usually want the whole thing gone not just someone playing inside of the machine. Why don't you do the landowner a favor and take the whole thing home, strip it of what you want, break down the rest and throw it away in your own trash (that's what I do). Maybe a different culture where you live bur roadside stripping probably not well looked upon here...
    When I can, I do. But at the moment, I don't have a means to haul the big ones. In my area, they require special pickup. People put them on the curb on trash day, and the trash man leaves a sticker on them informing them they need special pickup, and leaves it on the curb because he cant pick the thing up on his own. They end up sitting out on the curb for weeks sometimes. But when I strip them down to just the parts that can go in the regular trash, and the cabinet is broken down into parts that one guy can pick up by himself, the trash guy takes them out of there same day. So I am generally doing the land owner a favor here.

    I actually had four landowners come out and shoot the breeze with me while stripping TVs today. One asked me what I do with the parts I am removing, then started asking me if I knew how to fix lawnmowers too. We spent that time talking about how to troubleshoot his lawnmower, and then as I was getting ready to leave, he called me back and offered me a bunch of other stuff like speakers for scrap.

    Another one came out and offered to help me load the parts in the car. The other two just came out and chatted. One of them telling me that they didn't scrap the TV's because sometimes they have juice in them still (I always cross the caps with my screwdriver to discharge the big ones).

    I had a another guy see me stripping the last projector of the day, and he went up to his place, and started dragging out large flatscreens that he was unable to fix for me to take.

    Maybe if I headed to an uppity area, they might get snooty, but I'm cool with people, I speak respectful, and I don't leave a mess; and when I lay some good ole charisma on them, they warm up to me. I'm no fool. I know where I can, and can't go, and when it's appropriate to let one slide. Like if I'm going to impede traffic, or cause a disturbance by doing it, I keep moving, or I move it to somewhere safe to do it.

    The town I live in has code enforcement. I've even done it with code enforcement riding down the street. I've done it with cops going down the street. When they see how neatly I do it, and a smile and a wave, they don't bother me. I'm not that crackhead trying to score. I dress well, and I work with speed and purpose. And when I say I don't leave a mess, I mean I often leave the pick neater than when I got there.

    If only all scrappers worked the way I do at it, no one would have a problem. It's the guys who go in with hammers, and wreck up the joint that cause the issues.

  7. #46
    pascoEscraper's Avatar
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    In my shop we have invested in a mechanics parts cleaning tub. yes we do that many of them. it is mineral oil or gyptol based oil. gyptol is a sugar based material. We empty the tank about every six months.


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