Another screw problem!

Not that type of screw. I already have a Viagra prescription.
If anyone knows of a bit or tip or trick to get these out I would appreciate it. Or even the name of this type screw so I can Google it. Thank you.

Edit: it's the kind u see in the restroom stall at the truck stop. You can tighten it but not loosen.

Go to Greyson, Fastnall or any good tool co they will get you the right tool.

I've never removed one, but this method should work:

Originally Posted by erewen

Another option I use with stripped screws - use an angle grinder to cut a notch in the head, which can then be removed with a flathead screwdriver.

+1 one that.

Thanks erewen, I don't think I can get an angle grinder in there but I'll give it a try with my Dremel tool tomorrow.

They make a special screwdriver for this. It looks like two small round posts sticking out of the screwdriver shaft. They are slightly angled to make it easier to grip the screw. The idea is, you place them into the groves of the screw and push in while turning. I can tell you they are a PITA to use. Frankly, I like the idea of cutting a groove or using a plier like in the video better...

Those are true security screws that require a special socket tool that fits tightly over them, and even then it can be tough getting stuck ones loose. When I have come across such screws and didn't want to damage the item they were holding I would use strong adhesives, like JB weld or such and "weld" a small strong hex headed screw with tip ground off or old strong bolt. This works well when time is not an issue in the long run as it takes awhile for the required holding bond.

I have used small cutting tools also and cut slots if that seemed the way to go about the job. Have also used small chisels and worked them out until I could grab them with a vice grips or pliers, whatever worked best.

p.s. I'm curious of what type of fastener it is when you get it out. Is it like a machine screw thread or bolt thread pattern? I ask as that style is used as a sort of lock so that it can be removed for service or repair.

Originally Posted by ChildhoodDream

p.s. I'm curious of what type of fastener it is when you get it out. Is it like a machine screw thread or bolt thread pattern? I ask as that style is used as a sort of lock so that it can be removed for service or repair.

Ch Dream: the screws (I have about 100 to remove) are stainless steel machine screws that are holding a brass bracket.
They came off very large industrial fuses. The bracket is holding a muffler on the end of the fuse. I image the muffler (actually with the brand name "snuffler") is present so the fuse doesn't make an enormous bang when it blows.

My best guess on why they are security screws is the manufacture didn't want the lineman who was changing the fuse to think the screws had to come out to change the fuse. There are end caps on the fuse where an inner element actually blows which can be replaced.

That's just a guess tho.

Another possibility is the manufacture did not want the fuse installed without the muffler on. I don't think that is it however, because the muffler can be removed by loosening a separate brass bolt and unscrewing the Muffler.

In a manner of speaking, bolts can be compared to rubber bands. Once the underside of the bolt head makes contact with the parent surface, the head can’t enter the threaded hole, so additional rotation of the bolt head causes the bolt shank of a high-tension bolt to begin to stretch. The objective is to reach the ideal point where this stretch provides the needed clamping force to properly secure the component being installed.

When tightened properly (to specification), the bolt has stretched within its designed elastic range.

Torque values and threaded fastener clamping loads: Part I: From clamping loads to tightening steps - Automotive Service Professional

For small diameter bolts as previously mentioned a good smack to the side of the head will snap it off, for larger bolts a good smack to the top of the head will release the tension form the bolt being torqued into a threaded hole.

if someone has used a thread locker, no amount of hammering is going to work, you have to heat the bolt to soften up the thread locker - AKA Locktite.

The Impact screwdriver does exactly the same thing, when smacked with a hammer first releases screw tension giving while it a quick twist after the tension has been released all in one motion.

I get it alloy2, you want me to use a hammer.

The screws are stainless as I mentioned (so they are not rusty and likely to break off) and they are screwed into brass witch I think would just give if beat with a hammer. Also the screws are not exactly torqued down. I've removed 3 or 4 by hand.

Thanks for your input tho. If I run into a stubborn one today, I'm sure a hammer will come into play


Edit: sorry, I misunderstood your post. Good info there. Thanks.

Originally Posted by ChildhoodDream

I wondered if there might be many of them that you needed to remove. You have a interesting problem there that is not so easy to solve with "quick means".

I looked at your picture of the screw and it seems it would be possible if your handy at "hand milling" and have some nice cutting/grinding tools, you might try and make your own tool to remove them with. The trick seems to be able to grab as much of the slanted surfaces as possible, and maybe add a collar so it is like a socket.

I like the idea of the collar on the tool. It would help a lot with slippage, a major source of frustration...

Bigger hammer ends my frustration.

For ripping screws from appliances, including microwaves, satellite receivers and some CD DVD players with security screws I have my favourite Estwing claw hammer that I have re-profiled the ends of the claws to a chisel. I'll also thin the claw for the first inch and a half which makes it easier to use as a wedge.

I;m sure that most of you have watched a few youtube videos of people using what is called feathers and wedges to split rock, wedges are very powerful and useful. Often when I'm welding and have to pull to pieces together or force one plate closer to another I'll cut an arch from a piece of scrap then tac weld this to the sheets then drive a wedge under the arch to draw the pieces together for welding.

The ripping or framing hammer has just the right curvature on the claws. making these most desirable for this type of modification..