Planning on breaking down sealed units/compressors mostly from fridges soon.
What kind of plasma cutter should I get?
Certain model etc would be appreciated.
Thanks
Martin
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Planning on breaking down sealed units/compressors mostly from fridges soon.
What kind of plasma cutter should I get?
Certain model etc would be appreciated.
Thanks
Martin
Fwiw we've got a couple of suppliers that bring us the copper from them in large quantity and they use table saws
Freon Joe and Idahoscrapper have provided several threads on preparing sealed units. This is the plasma cutter that I use and it does everything I need.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPER-DEAL-In...=1550291495698
The other recommendation is to keep your eyes open for a Lazy Susan. With a sheet of metal on top it makes easy work preparing sealed units.
Just wanted to clarify the previous post. The plasma cutter mentioned can be run on 220 as well to increase penetration. Here are some more options if you are interested:
https://www.amazon.com/SUPER-DEAL-In...=1550291495698
I started out with Everlast, which I now refer to as Neverlast. After 2 machines failing me, I went with Hypertherm on Joe's recommendation. Haven't looked back since. I have and LOVE the PowerMax 45. Haven't come across anything I couldn't cut. One thing I really like with this one over the Everlast is when I lose my arc, I can restrike instantly. With the Everlast there was a 2/3 second delay before it would restrike. That may not seem like much but if you have a mountain of compressors to get through...
Oh, also the consumables last FAR longer with the Hypertherm. The fact I could buy consumables in large quantity for the "Everlast" should have been my first clue they don't last.
I too use hypertherm. I got the 30xp. It’s all you need for sealed units. I was gonna get a Hobart to start out but because of the discount at the welding place I go to the hypertherm was actually cheaper and better. The tips usually last me around 100 units or so before I replace them. They could go longer but it starts to really slow down around 100 units in. I run that and my compressor and grinder off a rigid 6.8kw generator. The torch line can also be spliced back together if you drop a unit on your line. With some of the cheaper plasmas like lincoln’s I found in the junk pile at work splicing the torch line back together would have been next to impossible. And yes I am running mine with a splice in it. That’s the only reason I know this.
does the 45 run on 220v?Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoScrapper
it does have a pilot arc. And the cables inside the hose, there is 3 white wires I believe that can be soldered back together in any which way you can get them since they all come off of and end on the same stud. Hypertherm does that so the hose is more flexible instead of running a really thick gauge wire for ground. Then there’s a few other color coded wires. We just soldered them and maybe put a wire nut and tons of tape on them. The air line I went and got one of them small double barbed plumbing fitting from Home Depot. That’s all that’s involved. Some other companies use like a mesh almost like in coax wire but hypertherm has nothing but like 20 gauge wires and the air line. Running up. I did have to cut some of the air line back an inch or so to be able to get the fitting in there and still have room to work the wires together.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackgold12
Yes it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapmanIndustries
Thanks for your magical assessment of my business model.
I am quite busy, thank you very much.
I rather work and make money than spending umpteen hours on here accumulating knowledge I never will use.
And no I have not yet purchased a unit. I am still stock piling the black balls are they are called by one of the local scrap yards.
I only get 10-15 a week or so. And I figure I buy the equipment once I have 400-500 units to work on, thus instantly recoup my investment (after processing).
For the rest I am working like a mad man, still hiring and firing people to help me process the massive amounts of stuff I am getting. Actually turning stuff down on a daily basis due to the back logs. And yes, I am making money doing all this.
I have a biltek cut50 plasma cutter and a predator 4000 generator. Is that generator going to have enough power to run that plasma cutter. The plasma cutter has the 110 volt plug in.
I looked up the specs on the Biltec
Copied as follows:
NEW Plasma Cutter 50AMP CUT50D DC Inverter Dual Voltage 110V/220V. This plasma cutter is perfectly designed for cutting stainless steel, alloy steel, mild steel, sheet metal, copper aluminum, and other metal materials.
Features:
- Plasma Cutter 50AMP CUT50D DC Inverter Dual Voltage 110V/220V
- Cut Up to 1/2" Thick Steel with the High Performance Cutting Torch
- Non-Pilot Arc Torch Provides a Longer Life for Consumables
- Advanced Inverter Technology Means High Cutting Performance
Specifications:
- Input Current: 20-40A
- Output Current: 15-50A
- Input Voltage: 110-220V, 1-PH, 50/60Hz Dual Voltage
- Cut Thickness:
- 12mm Steel (Severance Cut)
- 10mm Thick Steel (Maximum Cut)
- 8mm Thick Steel (Optimal Cut)
- Air Supply: Clean, Dry, Oil-Free Air
- Required Air Flow Rate: 0.6-0.75Mpa 3.0scfm @ 70PSI
- Duty Cycle: 35% @ 40°(104°)
- Color: Blue
- Material: Stainless Steel, Mild Steel, Aluminum, etc.
- Brand: Biltek
- Condition: 100% Brand New
Important Please Read: You will need to have your own air supply from an air compressor. Plasma cutter includes a standard US 110V Plug, you will have to connect a 220V plug to reach the 50A cut specs.
Predator 4kw. generator:
Specs as follows:
- 212cc,6.5 HP air-cooled OHV gas engine
- Heavy duty 1 in. steel roll cage
- 10 hours run-time @ 50% capacity
- (2) 120V , 20A duplex outlets, 3 prong, (1) 240V, 30A twist lock outlet, 4 prong, (1) 12V DC outlet
- Low oil indicator / low oil shutdown
In theory, the generator might run the plasma cutter. They're both rated for 20 amps @ 110 volts
In practice, i wouldn't recommend it. It would be hard on both machines.
There's power for the air compressor to consider as well. You would need a separate generator for that.
As a rule ... i try to avoid running any of my power tools on generator unless it's absolutely necessary. There are grounding issues, jenny voltages tend to run high, and the cycles per second (Hz) can vary a bit from generator to generator.
Thanks for that info. I just got it out of the box and didn't hook it to generator but to a 110v grounded and made a 220v plug/outlet for it as well. Tried it both ways and I get no air blowing up to torch hose. Clamp grounded. Compressor regulator is reading fine and the fan kicks on but zero spark at torch. Any ideas?
Maybe someone else could jump in ?
I know a little bit about the electrical specs but that's about the limit of my knowledge.
It is Chinese made but that doesn't necessarily make it bad. You could try calling tech support if they've got a number listed in the owner's manual.
==========================
Just a question about torching a sealed unit. You would probably drill a hole in the bottom and drain the oil first.
I would think that there's some oil residue inside. Would the oil residue vaporize & ignite when you torched it ? Maybe go off like a cannon ?
Ahh well ... questions answered.
They covered this seven years ago.
https://www.scrapmetalforum.com/tool...lar-torch.html
I would start by rechecking your ground. If there is paint, rust, etc. this could be the malfunction. Sometimes you can strike the ground clamp and ensure you have a good connection. This is an old welders trick and I assume it will work with a plasma cutter as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaGal
I run my plasma and welders off a 6.8kw generator all the time with no problems to either. ridgid's put out a really smooth current. about 200 hours or more on both generators i run. Hypertherm says their powermax 45xp should be hooked up to at least a 12kw generator to run full bore. but you wont ever get close to that with sealed units as that machine can cut like 3/4 of an inch and your only cutting 1/8 inch. so the watts required will not be nearly 12kw. i only run the 30xp though. way smaller. but regardless you should be able to cut sealed units no problem. as for the machine problems let me get back to thatQuote:
Originally Posted by NinjaGal
if your getting no air double check your connections and open the valve/regulator on the machine. on your machine cutting compressors you need to grind the base and ground directly to the compressor. try that. if that don't work also grind where you want to start your arc. if that still don't work take it back if you can and get a hypertherm. i got my hypertherm powermax 30xp for about the same price as the way smaller hobart. hypertherm puts **** tons of money into the research they do. they may seem like they cost more initially but if your planning on actually using it i guarantee you its cheaper it the long run. they make them so you can just smack the torch down on what ever you want to cut and drag that thing down the line. cutting compressors apart thats what you want because you'll move way quicker. the tips last a really long time in the hypertherm as well. theres almost no maintenance to do to them except for occasionally draining the water separator thing every now and then. and the torch is splicable if your unfortunate enough to drop a compressor on it unlike the lincoln's i saw come into the junk pile. they had like some coax type mesh wire running up the torch. hypertherm is like 6 or 8 20 gauge wires and an airline. (ask me how I know) :(Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaGal
I know everyone starts somewhere but if your serious about cutting sealed units apart get a hypertherm. Me freonjoe and idahoscrapper all got hypertherms for the sealed units. if you need a visual on how to cut these things look me up on youtube. under the same name but with scrap processing at the end of it. you'll see how i cut them with the plasma take note to how i got the ground hooked up. you may even see me grind the base too. i can't remember. you'll also need to watch my motor video to see how i do the stators as i didn't get around to filming the whole process of the sealed unit yet. I'm trying to acquire all the different types so i can show them all in one video for my how to on that. gotta get back to America first though.
Also wear some type of respirator. I peeled my filters apart to see how bad they were after a few runs of compressors and there was a pretty thick film on there. the filters caught most of it. but i wouldn't want to breath all that in all the time. i made that a video too i think.
Ok now got the plasma cutter to turn on and get air but I only get air when the trigger is not pressed. I press the trigger and no air comes thru. I realize it's a cheap plasma cutter but any ideas or suggestions? Any help would be appreciated.
this cut50 is not pilot arc, you need to drag the tip on the surface of the metal you cutting then check back with a reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaGal
when the cut has been completed the machine will continue to blow air through the nozzle to cool the tip, the built in timer determines how many seconds the air remains on.