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Ok, I don't want to get caught up in the Dumpster game...I need a trailer that I can toss some high sides on to toss steel in.....
At the rate we are breaking down, we take in 3 Gaylords every two weeks for scrap. I'm trying to figure out how big a trailer I'm going to need to match that volume....
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Q
It will depend on how much weight you're hauling. You would also want to consider possible future expansion.
Well the Gaylord's I use fit on a 40x48 pallet, and are about 40" tall, so 76,800 cubic inches divided by 1,728 c.i. Per cubic foot = 44.44 cubic feet divided by 27 = 1.64 cubic yards assuming of course for efficient use of space. Multiply that by three Gaylord's and you have just under 5 cubic yards for a trailer payload. A 10' x 6' x 4' trailer I own hauls just under 10 cubic yards, so you can see you don't need a very big trailer to match that capacity.
If i were you I would buy the largest trailer I could afford with manufactured sides to maximize payloads just to have capability for expansion. I like steel holding in my steel.
I have given some though about trailers and looked longingly at the "dump" trailers. It would assist the unloading process and they seem to be capable of hauling heavy loads, Mike.
Dump trailers are the best bang for the buck.
Heres Mine:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...02983975_n.jpg
The kind of trailer you get is also determined by the truck you drive. Take Resoureful's dump trailer for example. If you have a 1/2 ton truck that trailer prob aint gonna be very good for you because those dump trailers are so heavy.
Personally would go for 18 foot tandem Axle car trailer, dumps Are nice but after owning a car trailer for a year you'll wonder how you got by without it
Flat deck trailers r the way to go. U can always add sides if needed and easy for forklift to get gaylord boxes off. I have tri axle trailer (9 ton) with 6t winch, made good money with it.
i think a convertable trailer be cool, pick the sides up and pull the car trailer out from under it, set it back on and bolt it down. You'd likely need the sides frame to have a rail across the rear though, and that could lead to height restrictions
Consider what you're pulling with. As Miked mentioned. I bought a 16ft car hauler with a friend. My 4 cyl truck can't pull it loaded, my friend can tow with his eight cyl. Sometimes you find a deal you cannot pass up. Enclosed or siderails are taken into consideration depending on what your hauling. I will make temp 4 ft side on my hauler for cleanout jobs and remove a panel to get in and out if cars when we haul those. I think is the most versatile trailer I could come up with for 600$ and a clean title. Additionaly 1 axle or two will depend what you're hauling?
i already have a 16 foot car hauler, We're hauling Gaylords with it. I took the ramps off to get the forklift closer. I like the idea of a dump trailer. I wonder what kind of pricing I can get. Typically my yard doesn't magnet anything for me. So we unload by hand. A dump trailer would make quick work.
I have a 1991 Chevy 1500 with a 350....I pulled my galaxy over to the house with it, and I've put some heavy cars on that car hauler. I am trying to figure out a dumpster/trailer solution. So i'm either going to get an old pop up trailer base, and put stake sides on it, for easy "dumping" or try to find a dump trailer cheap.
Thanks guys! All great ideas!
Big tex makes a dumper try their website.
There is no such thing. I would think a car trailer with a flat deck would be ideal for gaylords, then have a welding ship add steel straps to the sides that 2x4's slide down into. Then make the sides out of 2x4 and plywood that you can drop in and fasten together. Easy on and easy off.Quote:
So i'm either going to get an old pop up trailer base, and put stake sides on it, for easy "dumping" or try to find a dump trailer cheap.
watch the towing capacity of the truck they will always get the load moving but its getting them stopped is the problem
Wescrapmetal is right you can have all the towing power in the world but if the brakes are not strong enough then what's the point I have a 03 gmc 2500hd and I don't even need trailer brakes no matter how much weight I pull.
Most states have a law on the books that when the trailer is over xxx amount of pounds then it has to have operating trailer brakes and chains. Some of our camper haulers tried to get smart and started putting lead links into their safety chains, that way if they lost control of the trailer the chains would break and not drag the truck into the ditch. The state DOT got wind of it and if they jumped on the chain and it broke it was an automatic $500. fine plus anything else they could find. And that was 500 back in the late 80's probably comparable to $1000 now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ptscrapper
I'll be honest I used to set my trailer controller a little on the heavy side so that as I was easing the brakes down you could feel the trailer brakes start grabbing first before the truck. That did two things, #1 it kept the trailer in a straight line under hard stops so it was not pushing the truck and #2 my truck brakes lasted around 200,00 miles before needing replaced. Try that with your truck with the trailer pushing you, if it don't push you thru a stop sign on a wet street.
This would be nice.
http://www.protainer.com/products/prorolloff/
I agree trailer brakes are a mustQuote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic688
The other nice thing about having trailer brakes is if you ever start losing control of your trailer (Like a jackknife) just reach down and grab a handful of the manual handle of the trailer controller and when the trailer brakes start grabbing it'll snap the trailer back straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by wescrapmetal
Try a panic stop with 5,000 pounds on a 2,000 pound trailer. Even if you manage to not lock up the brakes, that trailer will come around on you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ptscrapper
If you can keep one of these straight you can keep anything straight if your brakes are set up right and the load is balanced (even if you have to use load levelers).Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick
http://generalrv.interactrv.netdna-c.../136148_32.JPG
I know its been said already trailer brakes are a must if towing more than 2000 #, trailer weight included.
We actually are in the same boat. We have a small dump trailer right now but we are looking for something bigger. We went and checked this out today actually.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/grd/2985097978.html
We are thinking really thinking about buying it.
Now that one's neat, a do-all trailer, can even haul a car if you cut it up small enough,,,Quote:
Originally Posted by Escrap
Yeah it is in really good shape and would work perfectly for our needs. I feel this is a great deal for this trailer. Thortek, what are you looking to spend on a trailer?
Sure is neat, bet ya it doesn't have brKes tho, less they opted for electric over hydraulic brakes. Shouldve built it as a gooseneck tho,just my opinion
i don't have budget yet. Like I said I have a Flat bed we put the Gaylords on, but I'm looking for a "Dumpster on wheels" type scenerio. I like that Dump Trailer...grrrrrr...I need to make up my mind!
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions,Quote:
Originally Posted by thortek
Dad has a 7x14 dump trailer I use (when I can get it away from him;) ). Once it's full and all tangled together, having the dump option is a back/lifesaver. Slides out in one mess.
He has it tied up quite a bit so I am saving up to get my own. I think I will go with the same size/brand he has. On a side note it has a scissor versus twin ram which I understand to be a better design.
It's not clear to me which one you feel is better - scissor or twin ram. Also, what would be the reason - maintainablity, durability, etc?Quote:
On a side note it has a scissor versus twin ram which I understand to be a better design.
Thanks
Sorry about that. Scissor is better, based on what I have seen on other forums. Reason being if a line blows while raising a load, the trailer will twist and possibly tip over. Unless twin systems are being plumbed with a T, but that wasn't the impression I got from those who have used them.
My personal opinion is a scissor gets a higher dump angle with less stroke. Then again I have no personal experience with a twin ram system.
Save your money and time. Work out a deal with a local steel yard of your choice. Have them drop a roll off container at your shop and have them pick it up when its full. Call around and see. You would be surprised to find that most scrap yards will give you the container for free and pay you the same price for your steel as if you were hauling it in yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by thortek