Todays treasure.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5992.jpg
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Todays treasure.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5992.jpg
cool! I've got one of those sittin here too, my Dad used to use it around the place some. They've got different attachments that just swap right out. His has a side sicle grass cutter
Pretty hi tech back in its day
Looks cool! Does it run?
Beautiful! Is that a David Bradley? I love those old tractors. What's the wheel on the right from?
For anyone who's interested, here's some old David Bradley's: http://members.lsol.net/GOP4EVR/ Click on DB's at work for some awesome pictures. They were like the Bobcat of their day. You could get all kinds of attachments for them.
The walk behind tractor is a Simplicity Model L, from the serial number off the engine I'm going to say 1952
You've a sharp eye, there is an old car frame with trees growing through the frame, straight front axle with transverse leaf springs and a torque tube driveshaft. The frame has 4 of these wire spoked wheels. The frame is still unidentifed but were bringing her out in one peice.
Managed to pull some of the trees out with the loader but the ground got soft and hand to quit befoe bogging the machine down, I'll post some pictures when its out.
lol, i thought about that wheel, but didn't wanna change the thread, that's a cool looking grindstone too
Bear no problem derailing one of my threads at my age my mind is all over the place. Ok I've got junk fever just like the rest of you guys and gals, could'nt wait until morning to go and grab that old car frame.
Uisng the crane truck lifted the frame upwards about half ways to the top of the trees then swung the crane over bending the trees but not breaking any, a lot easier than trying to pull them out.
Ok guys what is it, I say Model T.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5994.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5995.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5996.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/100_5997.jpg
Well, from what I've found the rear end kind of looks like a Model A rear end. But the front end doesn't look like an A or a T. So I'm kind of stumped. There should be some kind of stampings on the frame I would think. Definately a serial number somewhere in the middle or near the front axle I think. All I know is that I like it!
Treasure indeed. What are your plans for it? And what size are the tires on it?
Cool find. I hope you don't plan on scrapping that baby. There are some guys that would pay good money for it. Beside this forum I also belong to a tractor forum so I can appreciate that fine piece of antique epuipment.
Buckatabon
Thanks for your help in identifying this frame, the differenctial put me on the right track with google.
Your right it's a Model A Ford the shock absorbers gave it away.
The frame was cracked and repaired with an insert then there are some welds when they converted it to a hay wagon. I'll have to rely on whatever salavageable parts there are to make a profit.
There's sgtill some sheet metal laying in the brush if it came from this car it would have been a roadster.
http://www.seriouswheels.com/1930-19...-Wheels-FA.htm
ha! there's one of those sittin here too. Two of the spoke wheels and an old frame made into a trailer out on the woods( I can barely recall the wood floor being on, it's all gone now ). Thanks for that picture biscuit, now i know two things i didn't before. What an old leaf spring looking thing laying out by the old barn is ( a front bumper off a model A ) Also, I barely recall an old roadster type vehicle sitting in the field, it must have been the body from that frame
Talking bout the sickle we call those a widow maker.There is a good reason for that label....
some drilling rigs offshore were built on platforms too small to hold the components necessary for all drilling operation needs, including crew living quarters. They'd use an old salvaged ship to supply this extra space, called a "tender"(as it tended the rig), and moored with cables, to pylons on the bottom. Attaching the tender to the platform was a large piece, having a long dumpster like tub for laying and picking up drill pipe etc, as it was moved from the tender, when needed on the platform, and a walkway beside it. That piece swiveled and rocked as the tender rose and fell with the waves, and was also called the "widomaker". As long as the waves weren't more than 6 or 8 feet, the swivel action of the widowmaker was good, but over that it was separated and raised up away from the ship, and a long rope ladder was tossed over to accommodate foot traffic between the two. This was where it got it's name, those not used to making this crossing could be climbing down the rope ladder, see the ship close enough to step onto, but before they stepped off, the ship dropped maybe 15 or 20 feet, leaving them hanging on to nothing but thin air, and dropping to meet the ship, on it's way back up to meet them. Thankfully i never experienced that first hand
Well, I'm glad I helped. I was thinking it was an A but I didn't want to blurt that out and have someone correct me. It's amazing how people adapted back then. I couldn't make any of my cars into hay wagons. They just don't make them like they used to...
They just yanked the body off of em and floored the frame. I think on the one here, they welded a cap on front of the universal to seal it. They also tacked some short pipes as support between the frame and the axle, i guess to keep loads from bottoming it out
well, i had to go find a photo of it, this look anything like yours biscuit? I don't have a picture of the rear end, but i think they're a little different.[IMG]http://upsimple.com/uploads/anonymou...53.jpg-200.jpg[/IMG]
Not even close, your frame is larger and it looks to have leaf springs, judging by the rear hub my guess id that you have a touring car. Do not destroy the frame, you may have to dissisemble the differenctial to get part numbers from the crown and pinion to indentify the car.
Serial number stamping into the frame and other odd places is rather new in terms of technology and theft prevention.
A word of caution a simple axle nut could bring you a decent price to be carful when your taking it apart, use a bit of heat and plenty of penertrating oil. An air impact works best, once the nut start to move the impact keeps it moving.
Now to indentfy your frame, good luck and may you be on the road to riches, I love old iron.
cool! have you ever tried water in lieu of penetrating oil? you might be very surprised. I once had a block with a stuck piston that I was hoisting a one ton van and dropping onto it trying to free it up. I was asleep when my brother called from work to tell me this, wash all that oil out of there real good with gas, let it dry, then soak it in water, tap it around a while, and try again. When i woke up thought i musta been dreaming, he called back and asked if i'd tried it, i did after that. After getting the oil out and the water in it broke right loose, while i was still just tapping around on it.
Apparently oil coats the surface rust but doesn't penetrate, but water soaks right in ( water is btw what got it rusted in the first place ; ) My first coarse of action on freeing an old rusty part now is to soak or spray it with water a few times over several minutes, get it moving, then, add the oil (don't tell this secret to liquid wrench, they'll never forgive ya)
those pipes that you can see from the frame to the rear axle aren't shocks, but pipes tack welded in place to keep it from bottoming out with big loads. That piece of steel out by Dad's old tractor looks a lot like the bumper on that 31 photo you posted
That style of bumber was commonly used on a lot of different cas and trucks, its the ach in the frame over the differenctial that tells me it has leaf springs. The large hud indicates touring car. Fron what I see I'm not going to venture a guess as to who made the car.
If I have a piston thats seized I know it's toast anyhow so I drill it full of holes to weaken it then break the aluminum out letting it fall into the oil pan. Cast iron pistons are much easier to get unstuck as the piston and block are made of similar metals so you do not get that horrible elctylisis working as you do with aluminum and cast iron.
I use penertrating oil, place a solid peice of brass on top on the piston then use the air chisel with a blunt chisel to set up vinbration to work the oil in, old wisconsin engines where you can remove the cyclder along with a seized piston I have made a steel plate with the same bolt patten as the cylinder head with a grease zek bolted onto the cylinder then pumped it full of grease.
Water generally comes in from the topside leaving the undeside of the piston and cylinder reasonably free of rust allowing easy removal of the piston through the bottomside. I would only try to salvage a piston if there were no replacements avaialable, otherwise go with an oversized new one.
A good machinist can turn out a new piston and rings, unfortuanely I'm not in that class.
yeah, i think you're right about it having leaf springs. The water i was just talking about freeing rusty parts/bolts etc
Heat oxidizes the rust into oblivion, also expands the nut or bolt, you never want to get the bolt too hot otherwise your only making it worse. With a bit of practice you can torch off a nut and not touch the thrads on the bolt your removing the nut from.
If I have a big peice of equipment to torch that has lots of large nuts to save on oxygen I'll split the nut on two sides then give it a whack with a heavy hammer to remove the halves. then push the bolt clear.
When I first seen the pic of the tractor I thought it was a Gravley. My dad had a Gravley when I was little (yes the wheel had already been invented). Seeing that brought back memories. lol