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Ok I have looked at this for a week now. Studied it well. I put soapy water in the gas tank. Then I tried to take all the screws out. All they do is strip. So now what? A big sleg hammer?
When I try to upload a photo it wants my URL. Is there an easier way to do this?? :confused:
Gus had post about this not long ago.
It is an impact driver. One that you twist while whacking with a hammer or mallet.
It drives the bit into the fastener as it turns.
called an easyout. i believe.
http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Scr.../dp/B0002UJNWE
easyout and impact driver aren't the same PTS. IMG, do you use a penetrating spray like PB Blaster...it's great stuff. If it still won't budge, I'd try an impact driver. Do you have a grinder or sawsall ?
If the screws have stripped out the thread, its probably into the Ali, in that case I'd cold chisel the things out, or use a claw hammer to pull them out.
Impact driver is different then an impact that is run on air. It's a screwdriver that you smack on the end of the handle and when you hit it it turns the bit a little and since your hitting it it helps not to slip out of the slots. they work pretty good if you haven't messed the screw head up to much.
and in that case an easyout might work....right KZ?
Oh your right I have one of those somewhere in my toolbox too. You put the bit in it then smack t with a hammer and it turns it like a 1/4 turn with every hit. In the airforce we used a johnson bar to get stuck strip screws out of the panels. it looked like this.
http://www.toolsource.com/brutus-joh...-p-117473.html
But you had to have another screw hole to anchor it into.
Found a pic of impact driver too
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...=0&FORM=IDFRIR
Easy outs are for removing broken screws, you have to drill a hole dead center then drive in the easy out. The twist is reversed so that when your using a wrench of it they tend to burrow deeper into the hole you drilled.Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTimeScrapper
Still no guarantee the broken screw is going to come out, these tools require a bit of expertise in their use.
If you had used the impact driver from the start, nine times out of ten the screw or nut comes loose a bit of penetrating oil helps, failing that some heat on the bolt before it is broken off.
Your allowed 2 percent iron and still be good for clean aluminum.
The problem with iron screws used in aluminum is that they're dissimilar metals a natural electrolysis takes place that holds the screw firm. This is one of the reasons you find zinc anodes affixed to motors and other marine gear, these are sacrificial. Meaning that the electromotive series of metals, zinc give itself up sooner than the aluminum saving the engine from eroding away to nothing.
Still you have the iron screw problem, the iron wants to give way to the aluminum, electrolysis at work. Save yourself some grief sell the motor as dirty aluminum..
Taking a sledge hammer to cast aluminum, it breaks like glass sending shards flying. Wear safety glasses if you do try to break it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by imyourgirl
I just googled the mark 5 looks to be from the 50's and would have collector value, now that you have damaged it save the coils, carburetor, flywheel, connecting rod, drive shaft and gear case from below. Essentially any part that comes free is good to sell.
If all else fails you can do what I do when trying to clean up aluminum. Use a grinder with a cutoff and grind away until it stops sparking.
Ez outs work sometimes...I do like PB Blaster Dee, that and some patients to let it sit for a while works well. Sometimes when I've stripped a Phillips head I take a Dremmel and cut a slot to use a flat blade screwdriver.
Not a good idea, what if she had magnesium and it started on fire by using the grinder. Water will not put out a magnesium fire only make it worse as soon as the water hits the fire you get an explosion of molten magnesium flying through the air igniting more flammable material nearby.Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoScrapper
Magnesium was used in the manufacture of bombs during WWII fro this very reason, when the fore fighters tried to extinguish the flames using water they spread further.
This homemade device is from powdered magnesium which is what you would have had you used a grinder on magnesium..
Well worth the time to watch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrE7dANm7N0
I have both grinder, sawsall, and I did spray it down and let it set for 1 day. The screws are counter sunk in. Never heard of a easyout before. I have drilled screws out in the past but I don't like doing it. May have to run to Sears and have a look around, ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Dumpster-Dee
lol how funny, as soon as I saw the picture I realized I had one of those in my tool box. Never knew where it came from or what it did. Thank you Thank you so much for clearing that up and don't have to spend the money to get one ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTimeScrapper
woot.... Yeah i got mine from an auction lot of tools. paid like 5 bucks for the box of tools and it had one in it. I didnt know what it was for the longist time either.
I will check it out and see if anything is salvagable.Quote:
Originally Posted by gustavus
For now on I am doing my homework. Live and learn! I am learning so much here.
Don;t fret over this engine, you'll make a killing off of the next one.
The large single cylinder farm engine is an EK Hercules that I aquired from a farm clean up summer before last. Yea I was thinking the same thing a keeper.
When the engine was removed from service they removed the oiler that goes through the water tank into the cylinder to lubricate the piston, piston was at bottom dead center and water got into the cylinder then froze, the block was cracked severely.
By disassembling the engine then listing all the parts on ebay I got way more money than had I sod the engine complete. I particularly remember the skids sold for a tad over $200.00 going to Europe, everything sold with the exception of the block
The huge radio below was a dump find, weighed a ton, and much too heavy to ship, so it came apart listing everything on auction, it was an incredible auction, the tuner knobs sold in the $200.00 range, even the leaky oil capacitors sold. Heres what I learned on the capacitors, some ebayer tells me they contain PCB's so I cancel the capacitor auction only to have several people email me begging to purchase the caps. Here's what they do, gut the oil caps then install newer model capacitors inside the oil cans the reassemble giving the illusion your looking at original capacitors.
If it' looks old alway check it out before scrapping, the older stuff usually does not have a bunch of plastic on it or stamped made in China.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...rum/EK1142.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...m/wireless.jpg
Gustavas I will let you know how it goes. Selling parts of it will bring better cash then selling it as junk alum.
iyg, please forgive me I insulted you....sounds like you'd tried almost everything we suggested...except the impact driver that you forgot you had. lol Good luck with it from here on out.
Did you see if that outboard ran before you tore into it? Outboards are worth a pretty penny in running conditon, Especially smaller ones that dont require a crane to move around and fit on smaller boats.
That was an old military radio, there is a big following for anything military.
I never really tore into it just started to unscrew it and stopped there. Listed it online for the whole unit and looking to sell it for 50-70 $ I am in negotiations right now. It's more then I can get for scrap priceQuote:
Originally Posted by G_P
Sold for $65. Thanks to everyone for your help