Work in progress: Portable welder/genset/air compressor

Engine is a 1971 Datsun 74 cubic inch 70hp. Generator is WW2 AIRPLANE Westinghouse 24volt 200 amp, my cousin used to weld with it back in the day, had it hooked up to a 25hp Wisconsin v4. Main frame is 2x1 channel. Got the engine mounts and generator mounts done today and started on the hoop frame to cover it all up. I have a rheostat but will need to make an arc stabilizer for it. Plan on also running an AC generator off the front and an air compressor, thus the mile of room up front of the engine, may shorten the skid a little, will see soon. Here are some crappy pics I took with my cell phone.


http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/mywelder.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a.../mywelder3.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a.../mywelder4.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a..._ss_340/w2.jpg



I am going to run flange bearing on the tranny input shaft to keep it dead center and take away the side play. Will have to get it machined and a sleeve put on the shaft to make it longer.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a..._ss_340/w3.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a..._ss_340/w4.jpg

I will! Thanks for the compliments!

um cooooooool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice rig MM!

Yup am planning on using an automotive ac compressor, I will utilize the electric clutch on my high pressure kick off switch. Did not like the idea of a compressor running all the time and blowing off pressure, would have been too noisy and risky lol

I put air shocks on the back of my truck today so it could handle the extra weight of the welder, as my fellow redneck friends would say up here, "She has dirty Mexican rake now!" I think she lifted the rear a good 2 inches or lil more in the wheel well, so the rear bumper is probably 4 inches higher than stock
Thats the max it will extend, have it at 120psi, will go up to 150 psi, my uncle said if I have it at 120 psi it will still sit higher than stock with my welder in it lol

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...exicanrake.jpg

Lol lakeside "pipe". Single 3 inch with a cherrybomb, CHEAP lol

Here is a rough sketch, not to sure where I am going to put my control panel with the gauges and such yet.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/P7170197.jpg

Pretty cool setup.

Wow bin busy custom combining and trucking, finally got back to work at the welding shop and have put in a little more time on my welder, here are some updated pics.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/SSPX0363.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/SSPX0362.jpg

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/SSPX0360.jpg

Brings back memories surplus WWII generators used for welding, if I'm not mistaken that generator operates at 3600 rpm.

How are you planning to keep the engine rpm constant, that old V4 Wisconsin had a built in governor, your Datsun engine has none. I recently purchased a Skid Steer with a seized gasoline engine which has an external governor attached. I'm swapping in a diesel engine which has a built in internal governor and have no need for the other.

No charge for the governor if you can use it just pay the postage, if your interested PM me your zip so that I can figure out how much it would be to post it.

I take PP for payments, can do International M/O's but these take longer to arrive and then there's the hassle of going into town to cash em.

That Datsun engine was a good choice, if I'm not mistaken the engine is slightly over square with a long stroke. Many of the old timers used the Austin A40 engines to run these generators.

I am going to put a solenoid on it with a relay hooked to my stinger, so as soon as it completes the circuit it will rev up to the set rpm

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

I am going to put a solenoid on it with a relay hooked to my stinger, so as soon as it completes the circuit it will rev up to the set rpm

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Alright assuming that works for you, how do you plan to maintain that RPM under load. Put cruise control on it.

I think I have it figured, thanks for the input, my idea may not work lol

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

I think I have it figured, thanks for the input, my idea may not work lol

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My offer on the governor still stands, it would simplify your task of maintaining constant engine RPM. You can find these external governors on most old farm swather's and combines.

Have you tested the generator, put 12 or 24 volts of battery power to the terminals it will motor if its still functional.

Many old portable Lincoln welding machines only came with crank start with the odd one having electric start.

In the ship yards where there were many welding machines one of the group always came equipped with electric start. After the operator got his machine running the welding leads reaching the nearest machine next to it the welding leads would be affixed to that generators welding leads reaching over, that generator now became a motor to start the machine having no starter on the engine.

And so it went from one machine to another to get them all in the group running, this is why so many older Lincolns have no electric start.

The copper and lead saved from this effort was used in other areas of the war effort.

You mentioned that your planning to have that transmission output shaft machined to support a bearing, why not affix your V-Pulley directly to the face of the flywheel.

Replace the pressure plate with a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch flat plate cut to size, drill in your bolt circle then weld a stub on center to affix your V-pulley. Sweet and simple.

Another thing I'm having trouble with is why you have set the generator so distant from the engine, this requires much longer belts which are going to cost you more also longer belts have more potential to slip.

In longer belt arrangements there will always be an idler in place to take keep the bounce out. Take a peek under your riding lawn mowers deck you will see that I'm talking about.

I have to use the original flywheel as the starter ring gear is integral to it. I have since changed my mind and will be machining a 7 inch diameter plate with the center bored 1 inch and then welding a 6 inch chunk of keyed shaft to it, then bolting it to the flywheel via new threaded holes in the flywheel.

I have access to several governor, I think I will not have anything to worry about if I set my max rpm under load, plus this is a 70hp engine and I only need 20 to run the gen, if that.

I have it the distance, because I did not want to make weird bent engine mounts and putting the generator beneath the engine would net a unit way too tall for my likings. Not too worried about the belt length and yes planned on using an idler.


Thanks so much for the valuable info, If my idea doesn't work and I use your idea, I will definitely give you credit lol!

Maybe some wheels to make moving it easier? It looks kinda heavy

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

I have to use the original flywheel as the starter ring gear is integral to it. I have since changed my mind and will be machining a 7 inch diameter plate with the center bored 1 inch and then welding a 6 inch chunk of keyed shaft to it, then bolting it to the flywheel via new threaded holes in the flywheel.

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Never suggested that you discard the flywheel, only the pressure plate and clutch disc, I said to machine a plate drill your holes to fit where the pressure plate once resided, weld a stub on center for the V-Pulley. Obtaining that bolt pattern from the pressure plate would be easy so why not stay with the same diameter and use the old holes save yourself some work.

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

I have access to several governor, I think I will not have anything to worry about if I set my max rpm under load, plus this is a 70hp engine and I only need 20 to run the gen, if that.

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Ok, then I'll toss it along with the seized engine I pulled from the Skid Loader next load out.

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

I have it the distance, because I did not want to make weird bent engine mounts and putting the generator beneath the engine would net a unit way too tall for my likings.

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Never suggested that you put the generator under the engine that would have made the unit top heavy, I noted that the generator sits some distance from the engine where it could have been closer making the unit more compact.

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

Not too worried about the belt length and yes planned on using an idler.

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Hope your planning to use more than one belt, I figure you'll need three.

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Originally Posted by MilitiaMetals

Thanks so much for the valuable info, If my idea doesn't work and I use your idea, I will definitely give you credit lol!

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Anytime.

Lol sorry if I offended you at all misread your comment on the clutch etc., yes I plan on running multiple belts.

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yes I plan on running multiple belts.

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Or like the newer vehicles, go to the boneyard and get pulleys and a serpentine belt, there a lot wider and will not slip.

put some diamond plate on it, mocked my rad up and am gonna mount my generator a little differently to lose some girth on the ole girl

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/SSPX0364.jpg

Started on my adapter plate that will have a stub shaft on it for the pulley, then the whole assembly will be bolted to the flywheel. Cut it out with the Plasma Cutter at work freehand, total diameter will be 6.75 inches so I cut it 7 so I would have some meat to remove rather than weld back lol.

Plate is 3/8's inch thick.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/PA180596.jpg

Nice job MM coming along nicely.

Agreed, much less trouble to remove metal than add back on.

I wish I had you guys talent at working on engines !!

Great Idea, Which type of air compressor are you thinking well?

Don't hold your breath waiting on a reply. Lots of folks in this thread from 7 years ago, are no longer here.

At lest we know you read the older posts...lol.

Sirscrapalot - You want what done for how much? HAHA...no.