I am wondering what anyone has for advice on a washer. In the past, I have turned them in just for the light iron after cutting off the chord. What else should could I get out of these?
Thanks fellow scrappers.
Printable View
I am wondering what anyone has for advice on a washer. In the past, I have turned them in just for the light iron after cutting off the chord. What else should could I get out of these?
Thanks fellow scrappers.
I always strip out the wire and pull the motors.
I will strip the wires and pull the motors. I think I would like to do this just before dropping it off for light iron at the yard without having to handle the unit too many times.
Same as others - strip wires and pull motors. Washing machine motors seem to be the easiest to get in my experience. Good luck!
Some washing machines have stainless steel drums. Don't ask me how to tell the difference, though.
Spark Test it with a grinder.
I'd use my trusty magnet,,,;)Quote:
Scrap man
Some washing machines have stainless steel drums. Don't ask me how to tell the difference, though.
Quick...safe...reliable!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic688
Some stainless is magnetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic688
Stainless steel - Sparks
Aluminum - No sparks
I have never seen magnetic stainless in washing machines, but I guess there's always a first time,,, :confused:
Magnetic stainless pays the same as shreddable steel at both yards I go to. It's the nickel they want. Not very much of it in magnetic stainless.
If the magnet sticks to the drum could it still be stainless? The drum has that speckled blue/grey look to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saroro
Also, the pump motor at the bottom that looks like a scrap metalscrap metalscrap metalscrap metalscrap metal to get out, is that the motor that is recommended to pull?
The drum is probably steel coated with enamel. Hit it with a hammer and it will probably chip
The last time I asked the yard about magnetic stainless, it was worth less than shredder material.
Check for coinage too in bottom of machine!
Looks like someone already checked it for change. This one was a skeleton, just the drum, heavy motor at bottom, which I gave up trying to get out. I hit the heavy motor at the bottom in various spots with my magnet, but nothing turned up non ferrous.
Thanks everyone for the support.
The magnet is limited in a way. You could have a copper ball, but if it had an iron core, your magnet would still stick. You can't test metal, unless you know nothing around it will affect it. The motor most likely has a non ferrous core, with a ferrous shell, hence the magnet would stick.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblackcat
Good point. This washer was semi stripped when I got it. At the very bottom is what I believe was the pump, but I guess it would be a pump motor. I removed the bolts and tried to pull it out to get a good look at it, but something keep it from coming out completely. It was heavy. I should have kept at it, obviously it would have come out some way, but I could only get it to pull down about 3 inches or so and then it was stopped/caught...maybe some other connector I did not see.
If it has a stailess drum it gets stripped but i have not found it worth my time to pull the motor. Ijust cut the cord, im not saying im right, but it works for me.
Yes, stainless drum would be important to remove. I will give a full effort on removing my next motor just for experience. I get around .10 lb for mixed light iron and I know that motot added some good weight to my total anyways, but experience is priceless, even if it from time to time it costs us money.
Like everyone else, I cut the cord, pull the wiring harness, and if it is not too much of a hassle, I will pull the motor. In addition, I will also usually pull off the sheet metal directly under the control knobs as it is usually aluminum. Also, the drum makes a very nice storage area for smaller steel scrap. I usually keep the smaller pieces in 5 gallon buckets, then after I load the washer on my flatbed trailer I will dump the buckets in the drum. If you load it before putting it in your truck or trailer it can be a royal pain, as a washer (or even dryer) with a drum loaded with smaller scrap can be very heavy.
Great point with the drum as storage for smaller scrap. My next washer I am on it like flies on sheet!Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne1956
Good point. I know I've hit on stuff that stuck with a magnet, but upon closer inspection it was backed with steel/tin. Like a painted aluminum sheet that was up against a steel backing. Or in the case of SS restaurant equipment, I've come across stuff that caught the magnet, only to find it was catching the steel frame behind it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saroro
Been awhile since I stripped a washer, but if I recall correctly you will need to pop the cap off the agitator and remove a nut, then pull agitator/spinner assembly out.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblackcat
Ok just did a washer dryer today. Once i got all the bolts free i simiply slid the motor back a few inches that pulled some of the plastic holding the shaft out of the tub just enough. Then i took my sheet metal hammer and busted the plastic loose from the shaft. Came right out. The dryer in reverse pull the ductwork off the back after removing the back panel break the plastic fan to piecse and hit the shaft until it pops out. Im getting a sledge hammer tomorrow from the hardware store and it should speed it up even more. I srapped the washer and dryer in less than ten minutes. All copper motors and brass fittings. Hope this helps.
At the bottom, center of the washer unit is the transmission ( if that is what it is called ) which continues up into the metal washer drum. Not sure of the best way to remove this, I started unbolting the bottom half of the transmission to free it up to slide it up into the drum when I realized that there is a spring under 200lbs of pressure. I stopped taking out the bolts. This piece of metal would have shot out at me at 200lbs force. So, just a word to use caution when dealing with anything spring loaded. I will retry using tinman#30 method working from inside the drum and busting off the plastic sleeve and pull unit down out of the washer unit. BTW, this tranny is mostly cast aluminum, and very large.
Same here. If it's sticky, it sells as tin.Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgonWelding
Here, all stainless pays the same. It's in pricing category of its own - one yard pays 0.75/lb; another pays 0.60/lb - but they pay that for all stainless steel. At one yard, they told me they separate it there before shipping it out.
Mick, does that mean a mix of magnetic and non magnetic stainless? I have been keeping the non magnetic separate and any magnetic mixing it in with my light iron. Sounds like I am making a mistake doing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick
Pots and pans and forks spoons and knives are a good example. They all look the same, but some are magnetic and some are not. Should the magnetic (stainless ) pots pans spoons forks knives etc be turned as such? I will call one of my yards in the am.
I asked specifically about separating the magnetic and nonmagnetic. Both yards said not to bother - it all paid the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblackcat
Interesting Mick. Some pots, pans, spoons, forks, and knives I run into, both magnetic and non magnetic, sometimes do not have any ID stamped on them, but I think it would be safe to assume anything pots, pans, pans, spoons, and forks are some form of stainless.
Some pots/pans will be aluminum, cast iron or silver (plate). I never thought about it, really. I just always figured stainless utensils would be marked. Although, I do have a bunch of other stainless steel stuff that's not marked as such.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblackcat
probably stupid question, but what do you do with the motors once you've stripped them?
also, the place I take my stuff to does not accept whole appliances and needs to be broken down to pretty much unrecognizable parts. does anybody else have this problem? is it worth it?
Are you sure it is a washer and not a dryer, sounds to me your trying to remove the pump off a dryer, they are cast iron and they have some kind of clip up inside to hold it in. The motor is cast aluminim and you can see the windings just by looking at it, the motor sould come right out. Also up on top were the controls are is sheet aluminim most of the time. Take the back off and pull all the wires out they are #2 insulated copper.