A better way to cut windings

So I bought a table saw a week ago. Finally got it all set up a few days ago and gave it a whirl. Processed 150 windings in short order. Or at least far quicker than the method I was using, which was to snug it in a vise, then run a 4 1/2” cutoff around it. Then I graduated to a 10” cutoff on a 9” grinder. (no guard. I don’t recommend it, though it worked fairly well).

Sometimes a better solution stares you in the face and you don’t realize it till someone else is doing it. So props to FreonJoe for turning me on to the idea of using a table saw.

So I did some browsing. Decided on a HF. On Mother’s Day they had a 25% off coupon, so I walked out with a 10” table saw for $103 and some change.

I set up some 2x4s, then bolted the saw down, set it over my bin and got to work. I zipped through the windings pretty quick. Best part is the blade still has plenty of life, even after 150. Just your run of the mill 10” cutoff found at Home Depot and others.

Another tip is using a seal puller to get the windings. Where I would spend what seemed like forever punching them through with screwdrivers, rod from printers, bolts, etc. Other than a few older/tough/varnished junk, I don't think I spent more than 60 to 90 seconds pulling windings since going to this method. So thanks to Joe for that tip as well.

I made a video of one. May want to turn sound down, or off. This took a bit longer than most. I was cutting most within 30 seconds. Then setting it off to the side and grab another. The mess I cut off gets pushed off into the bin.

So far I am happy with this saw. They tried to sell me the warranty, but if this dies after 90 days, that's $34 a month. I'm good with that.
Also, I am on the back side, pulling into the blade. Also wearing a full face shield, though if the blade were to shatter, I have my doubts the shield would withstand the impact. So the theory (and I could be wrong), if the blades goes, it throws most of it away from me. I stand to the side, to better see, and not be in the line of fire should it let go.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBmKDtn2LwY

I would maybe try to come up with a contraption to hold the motor so you can stand on the other side of the machine . I was afraid you were going to slit your wrist around the .40 sec mark . Could just be from the angle of the camera but it appeared scarily close . Be safe and it looks to be a very fast process .

Seriously, you are going to lose your hand. I spent a large part of my life working with saws and have seen all too often the results of using one like that. Please change the way you are doing this.

No offence Idaho but your setup would fill a whole chapter in the OSHA manual.

If nothing else, I'd try lowering the blade.

It looks like it works good but I'd probably be in the hospital if I used a table saw. My hands don't work as good as they use to.
I like my band saw. I can put a motor or transformer in it's vise, set the saw's feed and let it do the work.

I like the concept and would only add using a pair of R -11 vise grips to hold the motor, reducing the chance of cutting myself. Set correctly they would be secure, provide leverage, and move your hand 10 more inches from the blade. They would add about 5 seconds to the process because you would have to re clamp to cut the back side. Just a thought.

Decided to edit this post and add a picture of the vise grips I recommended. I am sure there is a variety of names for them depending on your location, vocation, etc.http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3p4fkxjz.jpg

Like people said I would drop blade down to thickness of windings then spin it, also use some pliers or make a jig to run it so your hands aren't that close. Looks like it works great though.

I have to agree with the theme. None of us want to see you get hurt so now that you have d sure fire method to cut the windings please streamline it with your safety in mind. Watching this I was thinking of something as simple as using the guide from miter slide thinggy. Mount that a pc of plywood and and set your rip fence up to also act as a guide and you would have a smooth sled. Then just tweek how you want to hold various motors. I like the Idea in general and If I continue to get enough material as far a motors Im gonna have to try this myself and look at a few applications. thanks for posting and dammit man be carefull.

That is scary.

I like this idea, But i'll stick with my hacksaw

Please use a sawzall in the future. I have a feeling you will be soon showing videos of your hand carnage at this rate.

Not only is using a sawzall and vice safer it also probably takes the same amount of time.

No better way than using a grinder with a cut off wheels. Lot cheaper faster and space effective

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Originally Posted by Jonniebrass

That is scary.

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Not as scary as using a 10inch disc on a 9 inch grinder....

WITHOUT A GUARD!!!!

I hope the flanges are the correct size and he's not using a 1 inch dia hole disc on a 7/8 shaft.....

What you really should be using is a radial arm saw table. Or a chop saw. That way the puece is still and you can draw the blade threw it. You gonna cut ya hand off mate, trust me. Been there, done that, got the t shirt.

I appreciate the concern, but I have tried pretty much every method and this is by far the fastest for me. YMMV. As for sawing my hand off, there is potential, but being an abrasive blade (and I have had contact a time or two), it's not as much of a concern as if it were a blade with teeth. As another posted, it very well could be camera angle.

To each their own.

I know this is Freonjoes method and Im sure you will do just fine. If I broke them down this would be the way I did it as well but its a little to noisy for my steathy approach.

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As for sawing my hand off, there is potential, but being an abrasive blade (and I have had contact a time or two), it's not as much of a concern as if it were a blade with teeth.

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I had to stop this horror flick at 34 seconds. Next time you do this have someone standing by with the phone and have them dial 9-1 and wait.

I thought I should weigh in on this as I did show Mark how to do this. First of all, I have been using this method for over 10 years. Neither myself or any of my helpers have ever drawn blood doing this. I cut up an average of 3000 compressors a year, so do the math. If anyone has a different method of doing this and can average at least 50 windings an hour, I would be interested in watching your video. I am always willing to learn!

Hello everybody! I am newer to scrapping so bare with me :) when you say windings...I get that part but if you all are running into volume like that are we talking electric motors? where would one find a "winding" I would presume all from elec motors? thanks!!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_151510-29990...e&kpid=3386534

This type of blade is safer -cuts slower - last long - I even cut steel
Just the same get a grip . Our work is not safe but holding it is the only way to get the leverage you need
using a pliers you could easily lose grip and things will go flying .

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Originally Posted by AMiller

Hello everybody! I am newer to scrapping so bare with me :) when you say windings...I get that part but if you all are running into volume like that are we talking electric motors? where would one find a "winding" I would presume all from elec motors? thanks!!

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motors transformers each one has a trick to get copper out .

I recently turned in a load of non ferrous - relatively small. 135.00 - insulated copper, 272 LB of electric motors.some cast and sheet alum..2 contractor bags of cans WOOP WOOP. haha..alot of that weight was cast steel casings on 5 big motors I had, which was nice because my yard gave me straight motor price on all 272 LB. although, I would be interested to see what I could have gotten weight wise in copper. I think I will start cutting them and saving the copper to compare numbers. Thanks!

Look at the picture and take heed. I used to literally hold/cup the stator in my hand and run right through the windings with a 4.50 grinder. Every once it would bite and pull. Well got lucky until the two times it bit, drug across the windings, and into my hand. Luckily it cauterizes the wound so its doesn't bleed too much. But it is quite painful when the doctor is pulling chunks of disk and copper out of your skin. I leaned the second time as you can tell. The safest method a metal chop saw or a radial arm saw. I'm planning to cut windings soon, so will upload a video demonstrating.

Funny side note is first time, I did this. I jumped in the truck after wrapping my hand up. When right to the yard to unload. Yard guy yelling and hollering because I dripped blood all over his desk and floor. After I explained I need gas money to get home from the hospital, he calmed down. But he told me I was a fing dumbass idiot and hopefully lesson learned. Well I did it one more time and that was it. Now use the chop saw or radial arm saw for everything. Side note, I picked up a 14" chop saw from a contractor off of craigslist for 50 bucks. Its a rigid and lifetime guareentee. I can return it anytime I want at home depot. A lot cheaper than being one handed for life if extremely unlucky.

http://s4.postimg.org/e61brblkp/20150521_054630.jpg

People try a diamond blade they CUT and come in size that will retro fit grinders and saws
Yes slower cut
yes more noise
but if the blade hits you hand
you might at best get a friction burn .
Sure it could cut your finger off but it would have to be intentional

A few weeks ago I mentioned how I cut a rotor off MY Dodge well I used my grinder with diamond blade
I have lost count how many cuts , same blade for a year
It's logical a blade that cuts cement or granite will cut metals

I just want to add a level of safety to this tablesaw idea. A small table mounted on the tablesaws Tsquare would sure help. If you have the table in line with the blade and clap the work down the guide on the Tsquare will make it cut straight with little to no jumping like doing it by hands
And did I mention a hell of a lot safer!!!!!
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/attac...7&d=1432233447

Abuilder
best idea

If you are not 100% sure about power tools.
Use a carpenters chisel and hammer.
A good sharp (!) Chisel will cut thru the loops on the end of the windings, flat with the end face of the iron core.

It may take more energy, maybe not. But it cuts thru the Copper nicely, returns more Copper in the finish and well, co$t$ nothing.