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Not that type of screw. I already have a Viagra prescription.
If anyone knows of a bit or tip or trick to get these out I would appreciate it. Or even the name of this type screw so I can Google it. Thank you.
Edit: it's the kind u see in the restroom stall at the truck stop. You can tighten it but not loosen.
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...pse8yhynxf.jpg
Go to Greyson, Fastnall or any good tool co they will get you the right tool.
I've never removed one, but this method should work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_B4iRpBe7U
One way irreversible screws.
Oh, those are a pain! Good question and good video!
Another option I use with stripped screws - use an angle grinder to cut a notch in the head, which can then be removed with a flathead screwdriver.
+1 one that.Quote:
Originally Posted by erewen
Thanks erewen, I don't think I can get an angle grinder in there but I'll give it a try with my Dremel tool tomorrow.
Small screws that are down snug struck with a hammer to the side to the head of the bolt will snap the head off, this is how I removed oil pans, valve and timing covers on the engines I was preparing for the foundry.
They make a special screwdriver for this. It looks like two small round posts sticking out of the screwdriver shaft. They are slightly angled to make it easier to grip the screw. The idea is, you place them into the groves of the screw and push in while turning. I can tell you they are a PITA to use. Frankly, I like the idea of cutting a groove or using a plier like in the video better...
Those are true security screws that require a special socket tool that fits tightly over them, and even then it can be tough getting stuck ones loose. When I have come across such screws and didn't want to damage the item they were holding I would use strong adhesives, like JB weld or such and "weld" a small strong hex headed screw with tip ground off or old strong bolt. This works well when time is not an issue in the long run as it takes awhile for the required holding bond.
I have used small cutting tools also and cut slots if that seemed the way to go about the job. Have also used small chisels and worked them out until I could grab them with a vice grips or pliers, whatever worked best.
p.s. I'm curious of what type of fastener it is when you get it out. Is it like a machine screw thread or bolt thread pattern? I ask as that style is used as a sort of lock so that it can be removed for service or repair.
Ch Dream: the screws (I have about 100 to remove) are stainless steel machine screws that are holding a brass bracket.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChildhoodDream
They came off very large industrial fuses. The bracket is holding a muffler on the end of the fuse. I image the muffler (actually with the brand name "snuffler") is present so the fuse doesn't make an enormous bang when it blows.
My best guess on why they are security screws is the manufacture didn't want the lineman who was changing the fuse to think the screws had to come out to change the fuse. There are end caps on the fuse where an inner element actually blows which can be replaced.
That's just a guess tho.
Another possibility is the manufacture did not want the fuse installed without the muffler on. I don't think that is it however, because the muffler can be removed by loosening a separate brass bolt and unscrewing the Muffler.
In a manner of speaking, bolts can be compared to rubber bands. Once the underside of the bolt head makes contact with the parent surface, the head can’t enter the threaded hole, so additional rotation of the bolt head causes the bolt shank of a high-tension bolt to begin to stretch. The objective is to reach the ideal point where this stretch provides the needed clamping force to properly secure the component being installed.
When tightened properly (to specification), the bolt has stretched within its designed elastic range.
Torque values and threaded fastener clamping loads: Part I: From clamping loads to tightening steps - Automotive Service Professional
For small diameter bolts as previously mentioned a good smack to the side of the head will snap it off, for larger bolts a good smack to the top of the head will release the tension form the bolt being torqued into a threaded hole.
if someone has used a thread locker, no amount of hammering is going to work, you have to heat the bolt to soften up the thread locker - AKA Locktite.
The Impact screwdriver does exactly the same thing, when smacked with a hammer first releases screw tension giving while it a quick twist after the tension has been released all in one motion.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4ksxsvll.gif
I get it alloy2, you want me to use a hammer. ;)
The screws are stainless as I mentioned (so they are not rusty and likely to break off) and they are screwed into brass witch I think would just give if beat with a hammer. Also the screws are not exactly torqued down. I've removed 3 or 4 by hand.
Thanks for your input tho. If I run into a stubborn one today, I'm sure a hammer will come into play :)
Edit: sorry, I misunderstood your post. Good info there. Thanks.
Another way you could skin the cat, by heating a length of round stock, then placing the hot stock end onto the head of a bolt then hammering the stock until you have acquired an impression of that obscure bolt head.Quote:
Originally Posted by pjost
Blacksmithing 101
I wondered if there might be many of them that you needed to remove. You have a interesting problem there that is not so easy to solve with "quick means".
I looked at your picture of the screw and it seems it would be possible if your handy at "hand milling" and have some nice cutting/grinding tools, you might try and make your own tool to remove them with. The trick seems to be able to grab as much of the slanted surfaces as possible, and maybe add a collar so it is like a socket. Might take less time grinding on and making a tool then grinding slots or such in 100 of them. Being stainless they can be hard cutting.
before I was ready to post this I saw the post about blacksmithing a tool. That sounds like a great idea if you have whats required or can get someone with the required tools to try that.
Alloy 2 had a good explanation of the bind that takes place between the bottom of the bolt head and the mounting surface.
If you can relieve that tension somehow ?
Rightie tightie .... lefty loosie ?
It's hard to tell exactly but it looks like you could take a punch -or- cold chisel to the side of the bolt head and drive the bolt 1/4 turn counterclockwise to relieve the strain ?
Take a bit blank and make one! Put in vise and angle grind what kind of bit you need on it. I do this a lot, most complete bit sets have a blank it's just a solid 6 sided piece
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChildhoodDream
I like the idea of the collar on the tool. It would help a lot with slippage, a major source of frustration...
Bigger hammer ends my frustration.
For ripping screws from appliances, including microwaves, satellite receivers and some CD DVD players with security screws I have my favourite Estwing claw hammer that I have re-profiled the ends of the claws to a chisel. I'll also thin the claw for the first inch and a half which makes it easier to use as a wedge.
I;m sure that most of you have watched a few youtube videos of people using what is called feathers and wedges to split rock, wedges are very powerful and useful. Often when I'm welding and have to pull to pieces together or force one plate closer to another I'll cut an arch from a piece of scrap then tac weld this to the sheets then drive a wedge under the arch to draw the pieces together for welding.
The ripping or framing hammer has just the right curvature on the claws. making these most desirable for this type of modification..
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...pssdoaksq3.png
I like the giant hammer, but I have to say it reminds me of one of my little quirks. I know that many times it is faster and easier to smash something apart than it is to disassemble it, especially if it is only trash anyway. The thing is, this just bothers me. I don't know if it is a matter of respect for what someone else created or just the fact that I hate to see anything that may have a use being destroyed, but I almost never hit things with a hammer. I will spend a goodly amount of time taking things apart carefully. If I have to resort to a hammer, it is because there are no other options left...
Good thing I am not in a hurry...
UM if you aint saving it, just scrapping. Just torch it with the trusty fire hammer. Or for pin point accuracy use a plasma torch.
I am surprised no one has mentioned an easy out. I have used them for many stubborn screws and bolts... https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/...xtractor-Set-A
That's a hot tip. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by t00nces2
I always use my dremmel with the cutting disc to score a line for the flat screwdriver. When the screw is in the corner as it is in the pic I break out with my trusted steel chisel and just one big hit it ussually shears the sloped sides off making a flat surface for the screwdriver. P.s. If that's what they did in the video sorry to waste your time, I didn't watch it, I was busy cooking and drinking beer. I love beer. Lol
It's an old thread. If you go back to the first post and look at the picture it looks like a security screw. The problem is that from there on ... they assumed that it was an irreversible security screw.
It's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like a plain old security screw to me. One side might have been whacked with a chisel and a hammer cause it looks like the head was dinged up ?
There might be a simple answer. Just get the right 3/8" socket for that particular head and zip them out with an electric impact gun. He could get through the hundred of them in no time.
Yes it is an old thread. It's been over 3 years since he posted it so I'm sure he figured it out.
Hey Pjost, how about an update? :)
I ended up selling as is. Must have had bigger fish to fry.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimicrk
This thing gets pretty good reviews, anyone have one?
https://www.amazon.com/VAMPLIERS-Linemans-Extraction-Specialty-Extractions/dp/B00LMOAYR2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
No but I really like Alfred E NewmanQuote:
Originally Posted by robaz
Quid me Vexari?Quote:
Originally Posted by miked