help me buy a new (used) truck

So I got my 2wd, 2.5l, manual yr2000 ford ranger at 120,000 from my uncle 5 years ago and rode it and rode it and rode it, at 192,000miles its still going... weak. i used to hit 75mph just fine but now on just an incline, i struggle to get 60.
https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...10&oe=54FB69BA
I still want a small economy truck as my loads usually come in under 1/2ton and most my miles are freeway miles with usually less than 200lbs of stuff in the cab/bed. so yeah, maybe you guys could help me find something.
-Im thinking an older simpler truck would be swell as well that way i could learn to work on it, I have two good buddies who know toyotas inside and out and i hear those are the easiest to work on... I also like the box-ier, retro look of older trucks too
-manual is a must, and id like to be getting at least 25mpg on the freeway (i accelerate and drive slowly, id like to think im light on my engine)
-ideally, id like a little more power than what the 2.5l has to offer, although i still would like to run a 4cyl engine for the fuel savings.
-something I could put a tow hitch on for a little 1/2 to 1ton trailer?.
-I live in the city so a short truck is great although if the bed of my truck got any smaller (4x6.5ft), i feel like thatd be a problem
-also lower is better
-I realllly reallly want a bench seat cuase my girl doesnt like to ride on the raised middle seat cuase it makes her taller than me

currently my truck needs
-new ball joints, front and rear suspension,(any idea how much that will run me for parts and labor?)
replacement of two tires
-my check engine light just turned on for an 02 sensor
-the throttle starts randomly guzzling down gas when my foot is off the pedal since i first got the truck 70k miles ago
and well the engine is weak as hell. if i slam down on the gas my engine starts knocking, its been doing this since about 150k miles but has been slowly getting worse and worse, ill be in 3rd gear on the freeway just cuase my engine cant handle a regular old hill (mass airflow sensor is all wonked out)
-drivers seat blew a spring and sits crooked
-and it needs a full inspection cuase im sure theres a bunch more things wrong with it
Im thinking this may be the ideal time to sell it and get something new!
https://scontent-2.2914.fna.fbcdn.ne...ff&oe=55122865

posted 41minutes ago

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92 Toyota pickup - $3000 (hayward / castro valley)
1992 Toyota odometer: 115000 fuel : gas transmission : manual title status : clean

92 Toyota pickup. 115,000 miles. 5 speed. Awesome work truck. Great gas mileage. Only selling because my work have me a truck. Passed smog last week. These trucks routinely run over 300,000

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location and grammar have me thinking this guy is 1st/2nd gen mexican which makes me think he probably takes care of his truck?
I think i should call

I was about to post that you should get one of those toyotas. The 22RE engines are almost immortal. ;)

I can sort of relate - my 98 f150's getting up their in milage as well(just passed 173,000mi) with the same incline issues. Told it's either the rear end, the u-joints, transmission, or starting coils. I'm leading more towards the transmisison for a variety of reasons.

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Originally Posted by bluemeate

currently my truck needs
-new ball joints, front and rear suspension,(any idea how much that will run me for parts and labor?)
replacement of two tires
-my check engine light just turned on for an 02 sensor
-the throttle starts randomly guzzling down gas when my foot is off the pedal since i first got the truck 70k miles ago
and well the engine is weak as hell. if i slam down on the gas my engine starts knocking, its been doing this since about 150k miles but has been slowly getting worse and worse, ill be in 3rd gear on the freeway just cuase my engine cant handle a regular old hill (mass airflow sensor is all wonked out)
-drivers seat blew a spring and sits crooked
-and it needs a full inspection cuase im sure theres a bunch more things wrong with it
Im thinking this may be the ideal time to sell it and get something new!

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Ball joints aren't that expensive but their a bear to get the old ones out and the new ones in(Ford pressed these in) and shouldn't run no more then $40 for both the upper and lowers on both sides. Ford never ran ball joints in the rear so if you're having suspension issues in the rear, more then likely your shocks are shot and those are different manner. The O2 sensor isn't that difficult to replace or expensive either(it's located under the drivers side on the tail pipe). Can't help with the seat but the engine getting weak is usualy a sign of either the rear end/u-joint issue that plagues my truck or the transmission on its way out(does it slip in and out of gear?) I supose technically it could also either be the camshaft timing sensor, starting coils, or a bad tune-up/oil change/gas.

The basis of all Rangers up to 1999 when they changed designs was the Aerostar and I know a crap-ton about them. If you're serious about getting a different truck, I would look at a 70s to 80s toyota pickup with the 22re engine, that engine is both gas effecient and nearly bulletproof. Last truck around here I saw with one in it was just over a grand which is about right for market value. Ok, putting the car guy knowledge away now...

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Originally Posted by ryanw

I was about to post that you should get one of those toyotas. The 22RE engines are almost immortal. ;)

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But toyotas have terrible payload comparied to Ford, dodge, chevy

toyota should be able to handle a 1/2ton though, shouldnt it? thats about max i ever load up.
kinda leaning towards a toyota cuase i have couple friends who are really into them and would help me out if i ever ran into problems with mine. but im still open to any other small truck. recommendations?

but if i get my ranger fixed, ill be paying a mechanic to fix it.
I had a new transmission put in at 150,000 miles, feels A-ok

dodge Dakotas v6 models are nice. 6 speed tranny makes it ok on gas. (1700 rpm at 65 mph) cruising down hills in neutral saves gas. but also consider a regular truck. . they estimate gas at $2.20 by summer time

A 192 k. is getting up there for a Ranger. If you're seriously considering keeping it you might want to get a compression test done. Poor performance could be due to the cylinders & pistons being worn.

The Toyotas are allright but i've seen the frames rust out quickly. I can think of a couple of three year old trucks that had to have their frames replaced. They don't last for very long here in the Northeast.

If you're out in Cali it might be a different story.

Carb cleaner that O2 sensor and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .

i agree with benny. my dodge dakota is a tank. im taking it to pittsburgh when i go to trade school next month. they are built to take a beating

I also agree with Benny. I wouldn't buy a Toyota- they're no more truck than the other choices, but you'll pay more.

I own a 1992 Dakota that was an abused farm truck for over 100k miles. I've hauled 1800# in the bed with the 3.9L V6, and was able to do 60 MPH all the way home. I've also towed over 4000# with it. It had the 5 Speed manual, which was nice!

The transfer case broke on it (The last driver went "Off-Roading" a lot), and I was able to replace it myself. The Dakota was easy to work on.

You get all of the "big truck" benefits, in a small truck package. The 2x4 models sit nice and low, too.

When I get another truck, I'll buy a Dakota again in a heartbeat.
http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d3f1423.jpg

Here's a close-up of the load. There were some servers on the bed floor. I had about 1800# on the bed.

I agree with Benny as well, smart dude he is indeed. Lol, but yes I highly reccomend dodge dakotas. My dodge has 77k and still runs like i drove it off the lot yesterday. I am able to pull heavy loads like a 16 ft aluminum boat & 40 hp evinrude engine, 25 ft camper, and I have pulled a few cars out of the mud as well :) . The MPG is fantastic. I regularly fill my tires up to the correct psi (at new sheetz locations, its free and digital air pumps!) and I reach over 22 mpg in curbco.. thats not highway miles either!! Of course I cruize in neutral sometimes to save but its great. The newer dodge dakotas have a 6 speed manual transmission and those are great for the highway mpg's as well. If you take care of a dodge, it will take care of you!

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6ba7fd4.jpg
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9955351.png
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnVOtxXfqqI

My Ranger's engine took some abuse by running on low oil. The filter required more tightening. With that damage and higher miles it still runs well enough, but it is a 3L V6. So, get a 6.

Is that wiener mobile for sale ? You could sell hotdogs while you cruise for scrap .

I say stay away from an older 4cyl for free way miles. The trannys are not geared for it. My 2.2 s10 does about 2800 rpms cruising at 70, getting 26mpg while i used a 2006 silverado with a 283 for a while that got 22mpg while doing 80. The extra space and capacity is worth 4 less mpg

I'll admit my brother in laws 98 S10 gets good mileage and is fast - pushing 210,000mi with no issues(just had it in the shop to replace the gas lines - it was leaking up above the firewall). He would tow with it but no tailgate, so that'd be another vehicle of choice if you're looking to stay in that small truck/good gas mileage range.

You stated you want to learn to work on it ,your new used truck.

Why would you buy something to learn to work on it when you already have a truck to learn to work on??? And it's a ford easy truck to start with.

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Originally Posted by Metalbestos

Carb cleaner that O2 sensor and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .

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Good advice.

Op do yourself a favor, buy a manual for your ranger and spend your money on tools.

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A 192 k. is getting up there for a Ranger. If you're seriously considering keeping it you might want to get a compression test done. Poor performance could be due to the cylinders & pistons being worn.

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I think ill go do this.

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Carb cleaner that O2 sensor

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as in use the seafoam stuff?

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and the lack of power is prob a vacuum leak . Check your hoses . The rubber elbow hoses are notorious for cracking and allowing a air into the engine past the intake .f

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is this how to check the hoses? seems quite complicated
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks - Popular Mechanics

how is the mpg on ya'lls dakotas?
im fine with cruising at a steady 65, sometimes even slower

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Why would you buy something to learn to work on it when you already have a truck to learn to work on??? And it's a ford easy truck to start with

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i thought these newer fords are actually harder to work on. i mean one time i wanted to change a windoe and it required like 15 dif size bolt fittings and an angle grinder, wtf
but i do hear older toyotas are easier to work on.

i actually drove a 22r/e? (the fuel injected one) as my first car in an old minivan. god **** that thing was so tired an underpowered. eventually overheated it and blew the headgasket. the van is still there on the side of the house

The 22re is a 4cyl engine that needed to stay in their pickups and 4runners imo... but back to the subject at hand. There's a small rubber elbow off the air intake that dryrots and should be replaced if it's cracked or splitting. You also have smaller vacume lines that are sometimes different colors that you should check to make sure they aren't cracked or broken also. For a Ranger the 98-2000(4th gen I think) actually got really good gas milage and able to haul alot for being less then a 1/2ton pickup(was able to drive from Titusville, FL to Charlotteville, NC and back on a full tank).

Seafoam's good to use as it goes into your gas tank and as it's sucked into the engine, lubricates and frees sludge created by the engine. I use that and engine restore. Engine restore goes into your oil and as it moves through the engine, gives your oil an extra kick.
I'm not sure what Metalbestos was talking about with the carb cleaner but I believe he ment for you to shoot some into the air intake so it'll pass the o2 sensors on its way out the exhaust(the o2 sensors are on either side of the exhaust headers).

Depending on what you want to work on will depend on how hard it is to work on - like on my 98 F150 I have trouble getting to the back of the engine to get to the last two spark plugs because the Tritan's a giant engine compared to the inline six, but once you get the truck up on a lift, their easy like butter to get to.

the carb cleaner was meant to use to clean the o2 sensor i think. just spray it down and wipe with paper towel and reinstall.

also for vacuum leaks keep a fire extinguisher handy if parinoid about doing it but run motor and spraycarb or brake cleaner on the lines. if it runs higher rpm or drops you found the leak. this will also help find intake gasket leaks. has to be flamible spray such as carb / brake cleaner or ether / starting fluid to work.

as for bad tune up, check stuff out. not difficult to inspect and if you got sadistic sense of humor have a buddy hold spark plug while connected and turn motor over. if he drops or twitches its good... but seriously should have visible ark against ground when cranked.

chevy s10 with 4.3l backed by 5 speed or auto (700r4) is great truck and can do weight and milage what you need and more. they run them in full sized trucks if you doubt the longitivity for intended use.

My Dakota was a 1992 with the 3.9L V6, the 5 speed manual, and was the heavy duty 4x4 package. Unloaded, I usually averaged about 22 MPG with a light foot. I would get about 20 if I drove it like a teenager.

Loaded with over 1000 pounds in the bed, I would usually get 18-19 on the highway with a gentle foot.

In my mind, the Dakotas are perfect. The S-10 is a great choice, though, too. The 4.3 is very reliable, and I have the 700R4 in my 1987 R10. For ease of service, you can't beat a Chevrolet. The Dodge is pretty easy to work on too, but the space is a little cramped under the hood on the Dakota. It was not even close to the difficulty that I had reaching things on both of my Fords.

Just my $0.02

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Originally Posted by bluemeate

So I got my 2wd, 2.5l, manual yr2000 ford ranger at 120,000 from my uncle 5 years ago and rode it and rode it and rode it, at 192,000miles its still going... weak. i used to hit 75mph just fine but now on just an incline, i struggle to get 60.
https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...10&oe=54FB69BA
I still want a small economy truck as my loads usually come in under 1/2ton and most my miles are freeway miles with usually less than 200lbs of stuff in the cab/bed. so yeah, maybe you guys could help me find something.
-Im thinking an older simpler truck would be swell as well that way i could learn to work on it, I have two good buddies who know toyotas inside and out and i hear those are the easiest to work on... I also like the box-ier, retro look of older trucks too
-manual is a must, and id like to be getting at least 25mpg on the freeway (i accelerate and drive slowly, id like to think im light on my engine)
-ideally, id like a little more power than what the 2.5l has to offer, although i still would like to run a 4cyl engine for the fuel savings.
-something I could put a tow hitch on for a little 1/2 to 1ton trailer?.
-I live in the city so a short truck is great although if the bed of my truck got any smaller (4x6.5ft), i feel like thatd be a problem
-also lower is better
-I realllly reallly want a bench seat cuase my girl doesnt like to ride on the raised middle seat cuase it makes her taller than me

currently my truck needs
-new ball joints, front and rear suspension,(any idea how much that will run me for parts and labor?)
replacement of two tires
-my check engine light just turned on for an 02 sensor
-the throttle starts randomly guzzling down gas when my foot is off the pedal since i first got the truck 70k miles ago
and well the engine is weak as hell. if i slam down on the gas my engine starts knocking, its been doing this since about 150k miles but has been slowly getting worse and worse, ill be in 3rd gear on the freeway just cuase my engine cant handle a regular old hill (mass airflow sensor is all wonked out)
-drivers seat blew a spring and sits crooked
-and it needs a full inspection cuase im sure theres a bunch more things wrong with it
Im thinking this may be the ideal time to sell it and get something new!
https://scontent-2.2914.fna.fbcdn.ne...ff&oe=55122865

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Alright Blue, first my credentials. I am an ASE certified technician for 7 of the 8 categories. I've been to the DI class GM had going for a while when the new ecotec engines were coming out (LNF, LDK ecotec3 v8s and so on). Let me give you a run down of my thoughts.

First, sight unseen I can tell you there are a few things that will improve your power, mileage and longevity.

First, replace your oxygen sensor, If when you do, find the tip covered in oil, go ahead and stop right there, you have bigger problems. Second, clean your throttle body with b12 chemtool and a rag. If possible take it off and really clean it. Next you want to visually inspect for vacuum leaks while idling. Tug on the vacuum hoses to see if you can hear hissing and in general see if one of them is collapsed. After this, seafoam. For an older very high mileage engine I would use MOST of the can. Pull a small vacuum hose while it is running then allow it to suck up a small amount of the seafoam while someone holds the throttle just above idle. It's important the engine stay running during this phase and that it be warm. Once it has consumed the can immediately shut it off. Wait however long the can tells you to, then start it up. It's going to smoke like crazy, this is the part where you kind of beat on the truck to clear out the now softened carbon deposits. At this point sticky rings will start to rotate in their bores again and you might notice even LESS power. This is ok, we will get to that.

Your next step is a complete spark plug and wire change. There are I believe 8 plugs on the 2.3 4 banger. 4 are no problem to get to and 4 are nearly impossible. Some people think they can skip the ones that are hard to get to. (this is dependent on year so yours might be ok to get to). YOU MUST CHANGE ALL THE PLUGS or it's pointless and it will get very bad mileage and misfire and knock and behave exactly as you describe. So change those plugs at a minimum, don't forget to use dielectric grease to keep out moisture.

Finally an oil change. Fresh oil and filter. This is important because you're going to beat the literal carbon build up out of the truck for about 40 miles. Drive it as hard as you dare. You are doing this to reseat your piston rings in the bores. When they get stuck, over time the buildup causes microscopic uneven wear on them and...when cleaned power goes down because there is no longer build up to take up slack. Once your satisfied you've beat your baby accordingly, fill up with gas and record your mileage tank to tank for the next two or three months. Drive as you always do. You may note the mileage start off the same and slowly go up a mile or two with every fill up for the next two months. For sure you will notice more power unless you have mechanical problems.

Lastly if your truck has a catalytic converter you may have an 02 sensor code associated with low catalyst performance in which case still do the above, but that's why you have low power and mileage.

I personally have worked on rangers with 550K and more miles. CP railroad has rangers with 2 million miles on them, original 2.3.

Now my take on a replacement.

Step up, 2wd silverado 1500 with a 5.3 vortec made between 2000 and 2003. This particular engine had the least association with piston slap and low oil pressure issues. Some of them have had knock sensor issues but by now if the check engine light hasn't come on it won't. Their only other issue is a vent solenoid issue in the evap system. It requires replacement with a solenoid and filter combination.

I have seen trucks like these for 2500 in good working order. Skip the 4.3 2wd, the 5.3 has taller gearing and seems to get same if not slightly better mileage overall. I have seen a few getting 22-23 mpg with 5.3/auto 2wd.

I also second dodge dakotas. Personally I would avoid the 4.7 v8 and stick with the 3.9 OR 5.2 depending on what year and submodel you get. The trans is a 5 speed not a six speed aka 545rfe. It's a good transmission, much better than the 44/46re as it has no bands to adjust and thus is relatively easy to take care of. problems you may have, computer issues including no bus error messages on the dash and your radio not working. This is a ground issue, not really a big deal but there are fixes posted on youtube. S10s should be avoided, at this "age" the factory 4l60e is a ticking timebomb of 2000 dollar expense if it hasnt already gone out. Also the 7.5 rear end of the 2wd is pretty sloppy even brand new. I see scrappers with s10s all the time and most of the guys say their great trucks until they buy a dakota or a ranger...then their the guy that tells everyone not to buy an s10. I need not remind anyone just how bad the front end is on s10s, terribly designed, terrible longevity and expensive to replace ball joints and idler arms.

I drive a dodge, I haul over gvwr all the time, it is what it is. I take care of my ride, it performs well for me.

I'm just going to put it out their I bought a 2002 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 gas guzzlers. I average 8-9 mpg but I've put 1000 pounds in the bed and pulled 7000 pounds behind it. I just get nervous that if I get a half ton Ill end up overloading it. I could never run a 2wd Mid-size pickup. I would have it dragging. I never take in a load under half a ton unless it is non-ferrous. I love my pig though.

F150 have hauled over 6000lbs to yard.........THat made me a little nervous but it got there.........Only time it didn't make it was trying to haul a dump trailer full of shingles up a steep incline with gravel for the road.........Caught the battery on fire....LOL.......I thought I had caught motor on fire I was freaking out adding up in my head how much it was gonna cost to fix..........Opened hood and battery was literally on fire............Replaced battery and back to work I went

I'm looking at a GM 6.0, too. But, I wouldn't be using the truck as a daily driver. The gas would be too terrible.

If you want to do a lot, a 3/4 ton truck is awesome! I've towed over 4500# with the Dakota, though. Assuming the trailer weighs 2000# (Mine is 1800 and change), that's 2500# of scrap. Not too bad!

matador: "Doing more with less."

I miss my little 4 banger 91 ranger 5 speed no ac or power steering huge hole in the floor board use that for those bitter cold days when I needed to ash my cig lol. had a broken leaf spring so had a nasty rattle going down the road. best$500 I ever spent. I was going and dumb the fuel unit went out then decided I wanted a car to haul my friends around. wish I would of known then what I know now. oh well live and you learn.

i talked to the mechanic im taking it too and he said just to stick with a tune-up.
said no point in a compression test or leaktest unless im really having troubles like misfiring or something

he said something about compression test could damage it if there isnt anything already wrong with the engine??

I'd say a S-10 get the 4.3L v6 and get the 4x4 package and get around 20mpg. If you wanted the full size suspension, you could go with a Silverado 1500 long bed with the 4.3l v6 2wd. They get good gas mileage around 20 to 25.