Hot Water Heater Breakdown

Hot Water Heaters only weigh about 100 pounds and don't have a motor like many other appliances. Here's a few things you can do to get a little more out of them. Disclaimer: Not saying there isn't more in there or this is the best way of doing it, it's just the way I do it. I will only waste so much trying to squeak a little more out of something before I say F it.

On the top (not shown) if your lucky they left some copper pipe. Often times it's stuck pretty good so if it doesn't budge I cut it as low as possible and move on. On the side, upper top is the relief valve, down low you have the gas valve and the drain spigot (sometimes plastic, not brass).
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On the gas valve cut the thermo coupler as close as possible, cut the aluminum pilot light pipe, and unscrew the bolt holding the gas line. Pull the whole burner assembly out and set aside.
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Next I use a hammer to break the valve body free and get it to turn. It has pipe dope on it so it might take a few good hits before it starts to spin. If it doesn't want to budge I move on.
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Next I take the brass drain spigot out.
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Next the pressure valve. Large crescent wrench works sometimes, I prefer vise grips.
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That is it for the parts I remove, next post will be what to do with the parts.

On the back of the gas valve is a nice piece of brass with a copper tube, unscrew that and the aluminum valve body goes in my aluminum breakage bucket. You could break the valve body down further if you want to spend the time..

Cut the plastic sleeve of the copper pipe/nipple, then separate it from the brass part. They are usually threaded.
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Come down about 1/2 inch and nip the end off, the steel rod will then slide out and toss the nipple in the #2 bucket.
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On the relief valve cut the end to remove the handle then cut a slot on the aluminum cap that's pressed in there, then pry out the cap and the spring and parts should fall out. You should have some #2 copper, clean brass, aluminum sheet and some steel.
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Burner assemble will have a little brass, aluminum tube, copper and steel. At the end of the copper is the thermo coupler, that according to Hypo's write up a while back, can be quit valuable. I clip and save the end for now and throw the copper in #1 bucket.
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yes thanks thats exactly it! you are cooler then school my friend thanks alot.

Great breakdown, description and photos! I'll be referencing this when I come across a water heater. Thanks!

*i've never used a HOT water heater. whats the point of heating HOT water? :)

Useful post - thanks. I've got three or four out in the pile right now.

What is a gas water heater? haha just messing but I have scrapped at least 20 water heaters and not a single one has been gas, funny how it works.

Interesting write up. I had always just removed any remaining copper inlet/outlet pipes and tossed them in with the rest of the steel. I think I'll tear them down a bit further next time...Thanks :)

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Hot Water Heaters only weigh about 100 pounds and don't have a motor like many other appliances.

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My new(used) water heater I just picked up from C.L. for the house has a blower on top for exhaust. I imagine their used a lot in newer homes so as they go bad we'll be seeing them with the electric blower motors.

Just a side note, there is big discussions about not putting a lot of wood/plastic/rocks in the steel pile. But when you take in an old wore out water heater your taking in an extra 25-50 lbs of rust and water.

Thanks for the feedback folks...I just scrapped the whole thing quite a few times, but was bored one day and was looking for something to do. I usually save the parts for a few weeks then process them as a lot.

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Originally Posted by Mechanic688

But when you take in an old wore out water heater your taking in an extra 25-50 lbs of rust and water.

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Yeah...I never get really carried away getting all the water out, as long as we can get it loaded in the truck.

Thanks for this thread I just picked one up to day!

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Originally Posted by Mechanic688

My new(used) water heater I just picked up from C.L. for the house has a blower on top for exhaust. I imagine their used a lot in newer homes so as they go bad we'll be seeing them with the electric blower motors.

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The blower is called a power vent and they are used on LP water heaters. You will not usually find a power vent on a natural gas water heater. Whats the difference?? Good question not sure why they have to be on the LP heaters.

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Originally Posted by slaghunter

The blower is called a power vent and they are used on LP water heaters. You will not usually find a power vent on a natural gas water heater. Whats the difference?? Good question not sure why they have to be on the LP heaters.

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This is a natural gas heater and if I understand correctly it is so you can have the chimney go sideways and exit the house thru a wall instead of the roof.

Hey admin, can we make this a sticky?

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Originally Posted by Mechanic688

This is a natural gas heater and if I understand correctly it is so you can have the chimney go sideways and exit the house thru a wall instead of the roof.

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Ya, its called a direct vent. Very helpful for builders so they dont have to build chases up from the basement or first floor to vent out of the roof. Also, takes away 1 opening in the roof that could be a potential leak problem later on. Gas furnaces are another example.

I got some of those power vents along with a bunch of fireplace accessories from a auction a while back. Here's another use for it...When running pipe you are allowed so many feet in the run with deductions being taken for bends, angles and size etc. If your HWH is buried in the basement and you have to go thru 2 stories and a tall roof, a power vent will give you more footage to work with.

Good break down techniques. I just tossed one whole with my tin because I couldn't get any brass or valve off. I never think to use my vise grips enough.

Thanks for the Sticky Admin! I sincerely appreciate it!

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Originally Posted by KZBell

Thanks for the Sticky Admin! I sincerely appreciate it!

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WOOHOO you got a sticky.

A good grade pipe wrench comes in handy too. The yard usually crushes them as they pick it up, to check for load of water ; )

I've done about 10 of these this year. You are right on with the breakdown.

Clear and concise with picts. I'm not big on breakdowns. I do grab easy parts, like you've outlined. The gas valve has always gone in with breakage, its not worth it to completely tear em down. Thanks.

Most of my hwh are electric. I grab the brass, copper and any wiring I can get. I remove the 2 covers for the elements, undo the screws holding the wire, then use pliers to pull them out. Sometimes they come right out, other times I leverage against the opening to pull it, other times they snap off. If they snap, I call it good. Too much work to cut it open.

Have also been taking the elements out. Assuming they're ni-chrome?

On the power vent hwh and furnaces they are high efficiency. They are usually rate at 94+ efficiency or better so they can be installed without a chimney.

If i just cant get the vavles loose, i just saw off all i can with the sawz all,least i'm getting some.

Thank you for this tutorial KZ. If not for step two, I'd still be trying to pound the copper piece with the nipple out of the brass fitting. I felt pretty stupid when I saw that it just simply unscrewed lol.

One time I picked up a piece of threaded steel pipe on a hot water heater. I threaded that into all of the brass fittings on the hot water heater and then I used a hammer to hit the pipe. Alot easier then vise grips and a lot faster. I saved that pipe and I use it for every hwh that I get now. Just a little trick that I have learned over the years.

Just a tip I've been working on around my area: Whenever I see a Sole Proprietor plumber... an individual "one man & a truck" type of outfit, not a chain... I always stop & chat them up. More often than not, they scrap their own water heaters. But every once in awhile you'll come across a guy that doesn't. I added another guy to my contact list just today who just wants rid of them & said he'll even drop them off on my back driveway as he heads home.

How cool is that?!?

Not enough time in the day for many off these solo acts so I will also deliver the large equipment to my regulars occasionally (Fee)...Drop off the new grab the old, even clock in for a while even they need help.

Thanks great info.

Sooo that's where my favourit hammer got to.

Five year and above warrenty tanks get the brass drain valve.

If you give the drain tap a good rap on the side the threads break off, same with the releif valve.

For those hard to remove theaded copper fitting hold a hammer tight against the back side the hit the oposite side with a hammer makes the fitting slightly oval breaking it loose.

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