Need Advice: Opening computer hard drives from laptops

What do I need to buy to loosen the extremely tiny screws found on a computer's hard drive? I think both of my hard drives that I have are from laptops. My standard hex wrench set, both English and metric, are no where near small enough. What do you guys use to open these things? I am just trying to get any gold pins or fingers out, circuit board, the hard drive plates, and any aluminum. Hammering until it comes apart might ruin these things, right? I tried to add photos, hopefully that works.

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psudqodu4q.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbdzyda9m.jpg[/IMG]

I found this, but is this what I would need?
7-piece Precision Torx Driver Set

Thanks ahead for the help.

Try Harbor Freights. 34 piece precision screwdriver set for under $10.00...never a hammer.

Don't laptop drives have glass platters?

I think the smallest one I had to buy was a T6 then a T7, that is short for torx,
Some real cheap kits won't go that small. I got those extras at a Menards dual purpose hardware/lumber store, cost me a buck each.
Then I have a kit but I lost the smaller ones which is why I had to get extras.
Here is what I started with; around 10 bucks

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_21405.jpg

Yep I got the same bit set at Harbor Freight!

You are wasting time taking apart laptop hard drives. Whack them with a hammer and the glass platters will shatter. The boards are so light they are better sold as whole hard drives.

T-6-7

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AuburnEwaste

You are wasting time taking apart laptop hard drives. Whack them with a hammer and the glass platters will shatter. The boards are so light they are better sold as whole hard drives.

---

I guess it depends on the buyer. I get .60/lb for any laptop scrap which includes a hard drive tossed in the mix. I flick off the board and get my .0005 lb of HD board.. guess they add up to something over time.. where as I only get .42 for whole hard drives.

It really irks me when people get on here and tell others how much time they're wasting and don't attempt to answer a question.

If he want's to take the d**n thing apart let him take it apart.

Harbor freight should have what you need.

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

I suggest in the beginning to take apart everything you have time to do. It will broaden your knowledge and help you decide what to do with them in the future. Mike

Of all places, walmart has the tools you need in a neat and cheap red case with clear cover. It's advertised as a bit set with 1/8" drive bits, that's what you need. Ignore what looks to be a security torx, it is not. Use a T4 thru T7 on most (for me every laptop drive with torx screws so far) laptop drives.

Once open, be careful the platters are glass AND tempered meaning if you break them they wont just...crack, they explode into a billion pieces that can get in everything including eyeballs and skin, ask me how I know this.

That's your helpful answer. If you have difficulty getting the bit to fit, carefully use a fine side sharpening stone/hone or 500 grit sandpaper on the interface of the bit, when they are made they tend to round themselves and "grinding" them perpendicular makes them work better. Do this by hand, if you don't the heat will destroy the cheap temper and make your bit break.

What you mean to say is that it irks you when someone tries to save another member some valuable time?

No, what I'm trying to say is that it is not up to you to decide what my time or any one else's is worth.

I understand that many people on this forum, like yourself, do this full time. Many own and run recycling facilities or computer shops or whatever. Are you going to pay your employees to break down laptop hard drives or PC power supplies. Hell no!

I do this part time and many here do it as a hobby. I use to breakdown everything, including printers. 3 years later and the amount of scrap I get has increased and I have changed the way I do things and how far I break down certain items.

Something else I have to consider is what the local yards are paying or even if they buy certain items. PC power supplies and hard drives are a good example. Yards here don't want to pay more than shred for them so I don't even remove power supplies from the PC anymore. I cut the wire flush with the outside and move on to the next one.

All hard drive boards are removed. The hard drives from laptops are bent in a vice and thrown in with the shred. The big hard drives are taken apart.

That's what works best for me where I live and with the local yards I have.

I determine what my time is worth, not you.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AuburnEwaste

What you mean to say is that it irks you when someone tries to save another member some valuable time?

---

No I meant what I said and now you're trying to put words in my mouth.

Its great fun to watch the platters explode into a million pieces if your wearing the proper safety equipment..(eye protection, long sleeves, gloves..)

Don't ask how I know. ;)

Far as that other stuff...

It's great to be reminded time is money, but when one is looking for an answer because they want to break something down further, nothing sucks more then getting a simple answer of.."Why bother, it's not worth it.".

How many times I've herd "Don't do tvs! their not worth it!" What should be being said is.."I don't do tv's cause their not worth it to ME." Or the famous..."if your not getting more then scrap value your doing it wrong!" I beg to differ. I'm just doing it different.

I guess what I'm trying to say is...we're all little unique snow flakes in how we do things. What works for you, may not work for me.

Sirscrapalot - YMMV.

The hard drives from laptops are bent in a vice and thrown in with the shred.

Full article at Scrap Metal Forum: http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap...#ixzz3hLWEnARt
Why not at least throw em' in breakage?

Because they don't have a breakage category. They don't want them.

It's all situational & everyone's situation is different. What's profitable for one might not be profitable for another. Your best friend is an inexpensive scale and a watch. Keep track of ALL the time you're putting in. Weigh up what you're getting out of it.

You might find that you're losing money with some things.

You might find that on some things you're only making one or two dollars per hour after taking out your operating expenses.

Other things might be more lucrative.

ETA: Just a suggestion: Once the boards are off the hard drives it's nearly impossible to ever get them operational again. It would take a data recovery lab & at least ten grand in specialized tools to do the job.

If you're concerned about data security pulling the board is really all you need to do. For all practical purposes anything beyond that is lost time / wasted effort on a low value item.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_23444.jpg

Between the 100 piece Harbor Freight Bit Set and the 34 piece precision set all the bits you need! LOL

Slotted: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 6.5mm, 7mm, 8mm
Phillips: #000, #00, #0, #1, #2, #3
PoziSquare3: S0, S1, S2, S3
Torx: T4, T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45
Torx with center hole: T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T35, T40
Hex: 0.7mm, 0.9mm, 1.3mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 8mm
Hex with center hole: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm
Slotted with center hole: 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
Butterfly: #1, #2, #3
Tri-wing: #1, #2, #3, #4
Windmill: 6, 8, 10
M-type: M5, M6, M8
Y-shape hook driver

100 piece set $7.99 after 20% discount
34 piece set $6.39 after 20% discount

And don't forget "free" with purchase items!!!