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I searched the vehicle section and could not find any info on this. I need some input if your willing to share. I am not a vehicle guy but I have acquired a... Piece of engine block? I am trying to clean it up but I'm not sure how to de-populate the "springs" and "pistons" is it even worth my time? Bear in mind I don't have any of the big boy tools. Pics below.
Thanks
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64582621@N08/6986534613/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64582621@N08/6986534487/
i'd get #1 Iron price for it just the way it is.
Here's your pic's for all to see,,,
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6...0b092f6afc.jpg
and ***
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/6...cc3a63d987.jpg
Those are heads. The "pistons" are valves. The springs are valve springs. On the few heads I have torn down, some valves and push rods were stainless. Keep in mind the springs are under tension and can put an eye out if you're not paying attention.
I could tell you my method but we don't need any more bad ideas floating around for someone to injure themselves.
Thanks for fixing my Pic. For some reason my pics don't post right. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Idaho PM incoming :)
Thanks
Yep thats a head. Autozone should loan the valve spring compressor tool to you for free. That will make quick and SAFE work of those springs and keepers. Good luck!
If you are not a "vehicle guy" and have never removed valve springs before please take note. Those springs are very, very dangerous if removed improperly!! And if that's all you have then it's really not gonna be worth the time and gas to ride to Autozone to get the proper tool. You'd more than likely come out ahead to just bring it in as is.
There's no good reason to remove them. Waste of time.
Roger that, Thanks for the good info everyone.
Yup some valves are stainless, while others have hollow stems filled with sodium the latter generally used on aircraft and industrial engines.
Non stainless could be an exotic alloy worth checking into, these alloys came into use when UN-leaded gasoline came into use. There is a market for this alloy.
The springs as you all know are under tension held in place with that top cover and two keepers. I use a hammer to give the top washer a good rap between the valves the keepers will pop out making removal of the valve a snap.
Never rap the large washer to point towards you, if you do your going to wear a spring on your forehead. Sounds dangerous but in 40 years of practicing this have never worn a spring on my forehead and still -have both eyes.
If there are any studs, smack them sideways they snap off, your allowed a small percentage of steel and still get clean cast iron grade.
Works for aluminum heads as well, the only difference is that the valve seats have an insert that you have to remove.
I do not advocate using an angle grinder for cutting metal but in this instance it works to cut a slot on both the intake and exhaust inserts simultaneously. Once that slot has been cut the inserts virtually fall out.
With aluminum heads you will have to remove the iron studs, if your shy on tools double nutting - pal nut the stud.
Then you can remove the studs, otherwise buy a stud remover. A good vise grip will work but tends to get in the way most of the time.
But then again, if all he has is the couple of pieces it's just not worth the time, is it???
SORRY , thought we were a think tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic688
When I take valve springs off, I have a old - deep socket I put over the spring/retainer assembly and I hit the socket with a hammer a couple of times. then the retainers fall out and my hand (with gloves on) deflects the pieces away from me.... works pretty good for doing it for 20 years