ok another question on circuit boards what are the hundreds of
little black circle things and whats in them?
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ok another question on circuit boards what are the hundreds of
little black circle things and whats in them?
Alright i am just going to tell you this because you are going to get some **** for it and i just got done getting **** myself. I am not trying to be mean just watching out for you. Try not to ask questions that you can not answer yourself. One thing i have leaned scrapping is if you dont know smash it. go pull one off the board and smash it see what's in it.
Dont take it personally just watching out for you.
Scrap on
Max
^^^^I'm sorry but I disagree, you never know what is inside some of these things and safety is number one rule when scrapping. No way would I smash something open and breathe in a bad powder or something. here is a link to a page that identifies each item on a board:
http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/200...ic-components/
You got a point
where did the circut board come from, if from a computer, sell the board whole, if from a tv or something like that hammer away and see what comes out of it.
they came from tvs and other things
scrappergirl,
as newattitude said perfectly, that if you do not know what is inside of something, or know what something is period, then FIND OUT FIRST!
If you are unsure, NEVER just take a hammer or any cutting tool, when you are unaware of the potential dangers that can occure.
For boards from tv's, some ewaste buyers will buy them as low grade board.
Some will simply tell you to just chuck them after taking the transformers, CBM's (Copper Bearing Motors), and heat sinks out.
I hope you don't have that mentality on a lot of stuff you scrap..if so, I pray that, that mentality won't kill you some day.Quote:
Originally Posted by maxa
If you don't know what something is, or what it might contain inside of it, always use safety and find out first!
scrapper girl good lagitimate question, I would like to know also but more info is needed.. maybe a photo. do not start smashing electronics untill you know what things are. some of the stuff when smashed can kill you, now or later.
disreguard the advice of some one who got their little hiney slapped earlier on the forum and is now trying to tke it out on little sister.
there are many here with many years of experience, and some with little experience or, common sence you will soon learn who is who.
Are you talking about these?Quote:
Originally Posted by scrappergirl4200
http://www.capacitorlab.com/capacito...capacitors.jpg
Theses are capacitors
Or perhaps these,
http://img.hisupplier.com/var/userIm...c$72210917.jpg
These are transistors.
yes exactly those injunjoe
420 girl your message box is full.
Clean it out and I will answer you.
Like already said, pull heatsinks and motors and throw the rest in a big container for low grade. Make sure your yard buys board first though. Yard I used to go to never bought the board, but they bought the heatsinks and motors. THEN they stopped buying the motors, said they were too small for them to deal with. So, I found a new yard.
Is there anything good inside of a capasitor? Anything poisonous?
This is taken from Wikipedia;Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapmonkey
The electrolyte is usually boric acid or sodium borate in aqueous solution, together with various sugars or ethylene glycol which are added to retard evaporation. Getting a suitable balance between chemical stability and low internal electrical resistance is not a simple matter; in fact, the exact compositions of high-performance electrolytes are closely guarded trade secrets. It took many years of painstaking research before reliable devices were developed. The electrolytic solvent has to have high dielectric constant, high dielectric strength, and low resistivity; a solute of ionic conductivity facilitators is mixed within.[5]
Electrolytes may be toxic or corrosive. Working with the electrolyte requires safe working practice and appropriate protective equipment such as gloves and safety glasses. Some very old tantalum electrolytics, often called "Wet-slug", contain corrosive sulfuric acid; however, most of these are no longer in service due to corrosion.
There are three major types of water-based electrolytes for aluminium electrolytic capacitors: standard water-based (with 40-70% water), and those containing ethylene glycol or dipropyl ketone (both with less than 25% water). The water content helps lowering the equivalent series resistance, but can make the capacitor prone to generating gas, especially if the electrolyte formulation is faulty; this is a leading cause of capacitor plague, to which the high water content electrolytes are more susceptible. The lower voltage ratings (thinner oxide layer) and lower operating voltage (slower regeneration of oxide layer) are further aggravating factors.[6]
There are a number of non-aqueous electrolytes, which use only a small amount of water. The electrolytes are generally composed of a weak acid, a salt of weak acid, and a solvent, and optional thickening agent and other additives. The electrolyte is usually soaked into an electrode separator. The weak acids are usually organic acid (glacial acetic acid, lactic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, crotonic acid, acrylic acid, phenol, cresol, etc.) or boric acid. The salts employed are often ammonium or metal salts of organic acids (ammonium acetate, ammonium citrate, aluminium acetate, calcium lactate, ammonium oxalate, etc.) or weak inorganic acids (sodium perborate, trisodium phosphate, etc.). Solvent-based electrolytes may be based on alkanolamines (monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,...) or polyols (diethylene glycol, glycerol, etc.
Edit; And a tiny amount of aluminum.