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http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/attac...tid=3135&stc=1
Nice Huh? its a 9 Amp 12000 rmp per min. Much better than the one I burnt out last week,a cheaper no frills brand one, And it has Way more cool features.Cost a bit more but I have a good feeling about this one I think it'll live a long life :cool:
Looks nice!! I just bought a brand new Milwaukee, it is worth the investment imo. Especially when you have 50 compresssors to
cut open. Ugh.
50 wow. Wish I had that many stockpiled. I think they are my favorite part of scrapping. They're like big black Easter eggs to me LOL. Sounds like your gonna need at least 20 grinding wheels depending on the brand you use.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJC
How are you gonna grind anything with that pesky guard on it?
Ouch!!! :x :lol: :l. 8-l ;(Quote:
Originally Posted by bullion
Always use the guard, it should be in a 10-4 o'clock position and the grinding sparks should hit inside the guard or the floor first.
Also, always use earmuffs because you cannot close your ears and use safety glasses as well.
I actually like the guards with a sheet of metal covering the bottom 1/3rd of the disc as well.
But for some reason they do not make them like that any more, you can put the grinder face down on the ground while the discs still turning without it spinning away or cutting into what you put it on.
The handle goes on the left hand side, if you are cutting vertically, hold the handle 'thumb up'.
Always position the grinder so if it grabs, or you let go of it, it will pull away from you.
When grinding, grind using the 12-4 o'clock part of the disc and only the outer 1/2 inch + of the disc.
When changing the disc, unplug the cord and short out the pins against something metal and put the plug in your left armpit as you change the disc.
Or somebody will come along, see the plug and plug it in...
Or, you will hit the trigger switch by accident and the grinder will start up.
I cut off only the top of the casing (on round casings, on weird lumpy ones, cut above the weld join so its cutting thru one layer of steel).
Then I shake the compressor out. (On another post I said 'cut just above the base, I messed that post up..) Then I fill both cases with Iron transformer cores etc and tack weld them face to face and sell it as 'HM insize' for extra $.
Hitachi followed by Milwaukee have been the best value per dollar spent on grinders at the family welding shop for a long time. They went through everything. For future reference.
Make sure your wheels are rated for your RPM too! I've used cheap cutoff wheels that just explode spooling up because they aren't rated for the centrifugal force.
4/8 my birthdate as well 49!
The gaurd is adjustable and removableQuote:
Originally Posted by bullion
Good Info Thanks eesakiwi
Nice! I have had a Makita corded grinder I bought used and have had for years, but this is my baby now...
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...41d195_400.jpg
18v of cordless power and it seems to stand up to the work... I don't know about 50 compressors on one battery, but that is why I have several.
I guess I am a cheapskate on my corded angle grinders. I use the ones from Harbor Freight, and the one I am using now I have cut open about 40 compressors, and it is still working fine. I also use their 4 1/2" thin metal cutoff wheels, and generally can 2 1/2 compressors per wheel. Since the wheels come in a 10 pack, I can cut about 25 compressors open per pack, and with the 20% off coupon, costs about 6.50 per 10 pack. Now, with that being said, I will be the first to admit the DeWalt and Milwaulkee brands WILL outlast mine. I also have an awesome cordless grinder, and it is an 18v Porter Cable.
Take care of it and use it correctly and it should last a long time. Dewalt is a top notch brand. I broke the shoe on my sawzall yesterday by cutting at a tough angle. Scrapping ceased. I was pretty beat up by that time anyway.