HF Angle Grinder for Under $20! Your Ticket to Selling More Copper!

I have a small collection of electric motor from appliances I've scrapped.
They're full of yummy looking copper- but like gold locked up in quartz- it's not nearly as good as it it when it's freed from the entanglements.

So I saw where someone had mentioned an angle grinder on Harbor Freight that was fairly well made- and on sale for under twenty bucks! I usually don't like things from HF, but since the reviews on this item seemed to be pretty good and some had even said it was the best bargain in the store, I thought I'd give it a shot if I could score one cheaply.

I found a good deal on the HF site-listed as on sale for $21,http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...der-91223.html

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2775/anglegrinder.jpg
and when I checked the HF flier in the Parade magazine in the Sunday paper, they had a coupon for 20% off any single item. :cool:
(The flier may also be available inside the store)
(I don't read Parade, I just filched it from the paper when I went to see someone)
While i was paying for the grinder, I gave the cashier the entire page with the coupons on it, and she asked if I wanted the free pair of gloves too!!:cool:
Suuure!
So she also threw a pair of heavy leather gloves in for free.

I already had a small, inexpensive drill press vise- not ideal, but it'll work:
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/6...lpressvise.jpg
(They run about $12 at HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...ise-30999.html

I spent $1.89 on a cut off wheel from Home Depot since they were out of 4 1/2 inch wheels at HF.

Throw in some safety glasses for $4. and you're all set
http://www.harborfreight.com/safety-...ear-99762.html

I tried it out when I got home and was pleasantly surprised to see how easy it was to cut up the motors and extract that gorgeous copper. :D
So now instead of selling the motors for 25 cents a pound, I should be able to get $3.50 to $4.00 a pound for the copper.

I really think a LOT of people are losing money by selling those motors and compressors at the tin rate and getting only 9 or 10 cents a pound.

.

I'm limited to 5 pix or videos per post so here's part 2:

A few videos to show how the magic happens

How to take appart washing machine motors for the copper wire
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35sdwud4k3Y

Stripping copper from an electric motor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejTcTmF72nY


HOW TO RECYCLE COPPER WOUND ELECTRIC MOTOR FOR CASH
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Votr2aLn0HA&feature=fvwrel

How to Remove Tightly Sewn Copper Wire from Old Motors
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSx0KJmn2VI

Fridge Compressor Fun - The Opening!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jF4Ta1_-HUg

Thanks ma, I just found one large motor similar to the large one in the first video and wil try that technique first thing in the morning. Also when he says grind is the like grind the weld down? or cut through the weld?

Depending on the price, it might be better to sell it as a motor instead of trying to cut off the copper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by matt018

Thanks ma, I just found one large motor similar to the large one in the first video and wil try that technique first thing in the morning. Also when he says grind is the like grind the weld down? or cut through the weld?

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I don't think it matters much. If you cut below the weld, the wheel might last longer. I haven't tried it between the two to know.

The weld does give a reference point so that you meet your cut when you come back around.

Using a thin cutoff, go around it several times, making a deeper cut until you get though it. Wheels seem to last longer this way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chaseonthego

Depending on the price, it might be better to sell it as a motor instead of trying to cut off the copper.

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I have done the math time and time again. Cleaning the copper out pays much more then motor price! I guess one must want to work for there money!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by injunjoe

... I guess one must want to work for there money!

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There is usually a direct correlation.

Seems like a sawsall or a band saw would be better than the grinder, but that's my opinion.
Some of these guys in the videos are sure risky with their power tools, etc. I guess they have never had a grinder "kick back" on them and OOOPs!!

Grinder can be dangerous- like most other things releated to scrapping and recycling.

NEVER stand in a position that would let the grinder kickback and hit you.
In other words- don't stand right behind the grinder when you're using it if at all possible. It will kick back against the direction the blade spins, so try to stay out of that arc of danger.

Well I used a grinding disc today and cut the weld right through in about 3 minutes then hit up with a ball pein hammerand the inner part came right undone then I used a cutoff wheel and cut one side of the copper windings. Then used a metal chisel and hammer and popped the cet end of the wire through the other end of the motor and pulled with a large pair of sidecutters. worked great! thanks for the tips.

Hey Guyz.

There is a guy that sits out in front of the scrap yard and buys stuff from people before they go inside.

Average Size Fridge Compressors for $10
A/C Condensor Compressor $15
Washing & Dryer Electric motors $5
Batterys $10-$12

Am i getting a good deal?
How is he making money of these?
Who is he selling too?

I pulled the twine off one of the electric motors there was like maybe (1 lb of copper @ $3.00 LB) - (1/4 lb of aluminum @ 1.98 LB) Not worth the effort. Easier to sell whole.

Any money in the transmission from washing machines ? There a real B*tch to remove.

ThanX

Grinders.... Let me see... Oh yeah! I have had the privilege to use many many many grinders. HF grinders never last me very long. I guess it is because I am a welder and really put them to work. My choice in grinders is the DeWalt 10 Amp 4 1/2" unit. I put it through hell. Once a year I take it to a local shop where they put new brushes, cord, and give it a complete once over for $50. I go through an HF grinder in 3 months or less. That's $80 a year plus travel time and gas to go to HF. I have had my DeWalt for 3 years now. By my calculations, I have saved $15 so far. $125 to buy, $100 for the two subsiquent rebuilds, total $225. In the same amount of time, I would have gone through 12 of the $20 units. One thing is garuanteed, no one is going to take as much care of a tool as the person who paid for it.

P.S. You will find Norton grinder discs last 2 to 3 times longer than imported wheels.

Quote:

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By my calculations, I have saved $15 so far. $125 to buy, $100 for the two subsiquent rebuilds, total $225. In the same amount of time, I would have gone through 12 of the $20 units.

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Have you calculated that those 12 cheepo units would've probably had 24 pounds of electric motors in them to take to the scrap yard? ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ditchdigger

Have you calculated that those 12 cheepo units would've probably had 24 pounds of electric motors in them to take to the scrap yard? ;)

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Nope, sure didn't. But then again, anyone who thinks there is $6 of copper in a $20 grinder should re-evaluate their thought process. I mean scrap metalscrap metalscrap metalscrap metal, I have only been a welder/machinist for 20 years. What do I know about grinders?

Just found out a Harbor Freight is opening near us soon. Can't wait to check it out!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chaseonthego

Depending on the price, it might be better to sell it as a motor instead of trying to cut off the copper.

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it depends on the type of scrapper you are.
the big guys are busy and its not feasible for them to spend time removing the copper from motors.
cos they could be earning much more out there.

people like me, well were not busy on a daily basis, so it would be very sensible to use that free time to remove the copper from motors etc.

I use a 9 inch angle grinder, the discs are cheaper & when its worn down to 4 1/2 inch dia, you can put it on a smaller grinder. It takes a lot less energy to use & its way quicker, I get about 12-15 compressors to the 9inch disc.

I have used grinders for decades & have never really had a bad incident with them, 'cept a small cut in a left hand knuckle I had to get stitched together with 3 stiches, tiny deal...

HF has this 9 inch grinder 9" Heavy Duty Angle Grinder

Incidently, they guys holding it wrong... Handle should be in the left hand sides position & the grinder should grind in the 2 to 5 o'clock position on the disc, so if it grabs, it pulls the grinder away from you.
Cutting vertically, right hand on the switch grip, left hand - thumb up- on the handle. If it grabs it will pull the grinder up & away from, and to the right of the operator.

ALSO, make sure the bolts holding the angle geardrive together are always tight, if they loosen even the slightest it will wear away the gears teeth real quick & they will strip & the grinders ruined, all in 15 mins.....

I got the same grinder last year. I use it infrequently, so I'm not too worried about the durability of it. So far it's been great. Gets the job done.

This is the grinder I'm using.
Well I was untill I wore out the carbon brushes. Which I can't find & because 'Supercheap' are a Aussie company, they don't really give a hoot about ol' NZ & muck me around for trying to get a set.

Rockwell Shopseries Angle Grinder - RS4703, 2350W, 230mm - Supercheap Auto New Zealand
http://media.supercheapauto.com.au/s...ges/135284.jpg

On the other hand, the guy said "If I could give them a receipt they could give me a brand new 9 inch Grinder". But I brought it 2nd hand in new condition.
They are worth NZ$129. About US$85 each.

If you get one, the brushes are cheaply made, very porous. I'd search for another 'brand name' set of quality brushes.
Also. Make sure the 4 bolts that hold the head together are tight, actually I'd drill & retap the threads out, replace the screws with bolts & use 'tabwashers' or use wire to wire the bolts in place.

The brushes started arcing, I thought it was the moter shorting out, but it turned out to be that the brushes had worn so much they were loose in their fitting & moved around untill the started shorting against the wrong contacts.

Quality grinders/brushes have a spring & plastic pin inside them. Once they have worn down to the plastic pin, the spring pushes the pin out against the contacts, removing the brush from the contact, stopping the grinder.
Thats when you get another set of brushes, or order them, pull the pin & spring out, replace the brush & use the grinder till the parts arrive & then put them in.

Along with getting a 9 inch, I'd get a 4 1/2 inch as well. If you are welding & grinding, I'd get a 5 inch & 4 inch instead of, or as well as, the 4 1/2.

Mark the bigger grinders guard at the 4 1/2 inch dia mark, then as soon as the wheel has worn down to the mark, take it off & put it aside for the smaller grinder.

How to max the effiency of grinding stones is to keep them at the maximin surface speed, ie the actual speed of the outer surface of the grindstone.
To do that, use the biggest wheel designed for the grinder & replace it as soon as it has worn down to the size of the next smaller grinder you have.
Also, very important. Let the grinder get up to full speed before doing any work, you will hear it 'ring out' when its up to full speed.
It'll then stay at that speed all the time & catch up between grinds. If you start grinding before it rings out, it'll never get up to full speed & the stone will never get to its maxamim effiency.
Same with chainsaws, thats where I learnt it.

When working as a welder I used a. 9 inch cutoff grinder, 9 inch grinder, 7 inch grinder & a 4 1/2 inch grinder.
9 inches for work & 7 for dressing & prep & 4 1/2 for touching up welds.

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I used the 4 1/2 today to cut apart two compressors. Took 4 mins each & really used up the disc.....

Oh, cut above or below the weld mark, you can see where its two layers thick & you only want to have to cut thru one layer..

Actually it is better to break down the motors depending on the size of the motor.
I breakdown any motor over 1/2 lb.
and before anyone asks - i only strip #1 wire or better