Clearances for a door?

I'm building a little, 8x16 workshop; so, I can be tearing stuff apart all winter. I'm building it in 8' panels (4 for the sides, 2 for the ends), which will be easier for me to move and raise by myself, in case I can't draft help for that phase. It'll be cornered with 4 vertical 4x4's. I'm in the process of finishing up the 7th panel, which will be the N. end; and, I need to be starting the final panel tomorrow, which will be the S. end, where the door will be. I've framed up a couple of them over the years; but, it's always been trial and error; and, the last one was quite a few years ago. For the life of me, I can't remember how much of a gap to leave around the door. It's a 32" x 79 3/16" solid core wooden door, that I picked up at a yard sale. It has the hinges; but, no casing. I'm going to be using 2x4's for the casing I build, with a 2x8 header (which will stick out as a drip edge.) The 2x4 casing will be set into the 2x4 stud framing with 3" decking screws, once everything is standing and tied together, to make the panel easier to move and raise into place. I'm not using any 1x's - the hinges that are already on the door will be matched to the 2x4, which will be carved out for them; and, the striker plate for the door knob's "bolt" (I'm fibro'ing the word) will be set into the opposing 2x4. IF my memory serves me right, it SEEMS LIKE the inside distance between the casing 2x4's should be about 1/4" larger then door; and, that I need to space it vertically in the studs with about 1/4" clearance at both the top and the bottom (1/2" total); but, I can't remember if these clearances were from something that worked versus something I tried that didn't work out so well... If it helps any, I'm in Okla., where the weather is "all over the place;" and, wood swelling and contraction is a factor. I didn't measure the thickness of the door; but, eyeballing it, it looks to be about 1 1/2" thick. Since the workshop is going to be so small, I'm going to have it opening outwardly. I tried googling it; but, got way too many irrelevant results, such as folks talking about pre-hung doors (not likely that I'll find one of those at a yard sale for $5!...) I'd REALLY like to get that last panel framed up tomorrow; so, if any one can either confirm these clearances; or, suggest better ones, I'd really appreciate it. :)

Added: If you run across this a few days from now and there aren't any/many replies, please go ahead and comment. If I have to, I CAN wait until I frame in the floor first. I'll have to do so before I can start putting things up, anyway; but, because of obstructions (and my own quirks), I'd really like to have both ends finished, attached to the 4x4's, and leaning up against what this shop is going to be nestled into before doing so.

When I am frame for a door, I usually make my rough opening 2" larger than the actual door size. But that is assuming a that I'll be using a standard size door jamb, which it sounds that you are not. I think what you are calling the 'casing' is what is called the 'jamb'. The casing is normally the trim that is used on the interior and exterior. The door jamb is what the door is hinged to. You can buy exterior 'jamb stock' at most lumber yards by the foot.
When I am doing a custom install and not using a prehung unit, I normally try to have a 3/16" gap between the jamb and door, but if you're expecting possible swelling and shrinking, you may want to increase that dimension.

Good Luck...

If you put your back to the frame on the hinge side, if it swings left, it's a left hand, right, it's a right hand. Your door should be beveled to the inside. You'll want a 1/8in gap max, all around, with the door closed, when you're done. The top header should be flush with your framing, to accommodate the outer siding. Above that you can fashion a drip edge, or use a factory made(they're Al, about 36", stick out about 3", with a small upturn at the back for attaching to your wall.
Frame in your door opening to accommodate a 1x(actual measurement generally=3/4) casing, and secure the door to that (with screws that will reach into the framing). It isn't easy to hang a solid core door by yourself, but it can be done using shim blocks to hold the door while you sink the screws
Here's a link to some info, I didn't study it in depth, but it looks informative Doors - Chapter 8: Doors and Windows - Woodworking & Carpentry Online

haha! yeah, I was calling casing the jamb thinking the jamb was the stop! ohwell, you get what ya pay for :P

Yes, DiamondN, I was referring to the jamb as the casing - partially since, in this case, they're kind of one and the same; and, partially because I fibro'd the word. (That happens a lot with me. Fibromyalgia really sucks...) I have 2x4's on hand; plus, I tend to tear up 1x's when I try to wrestle stuff around solo. (LOL, I can also use a small sledge hammer to "adjust" 2x4's.) ;p It sounds like you're agreeing with the 1/4" on the inside width, given the potential for swelling here. What do you typically use for top and bottom clearances?

Thanks for the link, Bear, I've glanced over it and will be going through it more thoroughly in a few minutes. It's handy to know about the bevel. LOL, that might be one of the reasons why I've had problems in the past. If I get an old door and need to "change its handedness", I generally just turn it around and transpose the door knob handles... As far as the jamb stock, though, I'm going to stick to 2x4's, for the reasons mentioned above. If my door height is 79 3/16", are you saying that the vertical measurement of the jamb would also be 79 3/16"? If so, wouldn't it stick when it weather swelled??? (I think I might be misinterpreting what you're saying; or, we're on 2 different pages, due to the differences in how I'm building this.) I'll probably be trimming it on the inside, in part so it doesn't "overshoot" when I close it and in part to keep the wind out from any clearance spacing. I used to have a couple of old thresholds laying around; but, I'm having trouble finding them.

your "trimming inside" is known as a "stop", and your trimming outside (aka a casing) might help. You may use a 2x for a jamb if you like, whatever floats your boat. You'll still want a minimal (1/8" suggested) clearance all around. If your door collects that much weather so as to swell, your framing and finishing has missed it's mark ; )

Thanks Bear, That helps. :) I kind of go through life finding ways to "make things work," without letting a lack of experience or training stand in my way. ;p Weirdly enough, most of the time, things wind up working out; but, not always having the right terminology DOES sometimes make things more complicated. To make matters worse, now days, I can't remember about half the terminology that I used to know years ago.

if you have further questions, i'll try to help if i can. DiamondN seems to know a good bit about them too :)

I appreciate that Bear. :) Here's hoping that things go smooth tomorrow (Fri.) It's going to be getting too cold soon to be doing this stuff outside; plus, tarping everything over every time that rain's in the forecast is a hassle. :) I've still got "a ways to go" before I have enough backing plates to be able to sell; and, I'm getting lower and lower on my propane gauge with every cold front; so, I need to be getting this sucker up and get back to breaking down mags and the drives I went down and bought from easy. If I have enough left over after paying back what I owe and getting propane, I'm hoping to be able to get my truck fixed and get back to picking up other kinds of scrap again, as well as collecting permalloy. LOL, With a "Honda Civic pickup truck" (a pallet on the back, behind the hatchback, suspended by ropes), it's hard to haul enough to make a trip into OKC worth bothering with; and, the yards around here don't pay enough to be worth bothering with. (I'd go in the hole even on my gas for collecting.) I'm REALLY glad that I ran across this permalloy thing, it's given me some hope back. (And, I've gotten to run across some pretty great folks over here on this forum, as icing on the cake. :D ) Thanks again!

To kind of echo what was said above I frame my door openings 2" over call out in both width and height in order to accommodate 3/4" door jambs. So if your using 2x material for your jambs the width of your rough opening should be 35 1/2" and the height about 84" depending on what you are using for a threshold. It's important to leave some clearance for the bottom of the door to swing in and over a rug if you plan on having one to wipe your feet. Often times on a prehung door that has the threshold built into it I will nail a 1x on the floor for the door to set on so that when you open it, it clears the rug.

If your building your own prehung door a 1/8" gap/reveal is good on sides and top and again just plan for the threshold thickness on the bottom. If you put your door stops in before you set the door just tack them with a few nails in case you want to adjust some for weather stripping thickness when all is said and done.

Rough opening in the framing should be at least 1/4" larger on top and sides so you can adjust the door when setting, then use shims to fill the gaps where you are nailing/screwing thru your jambs and into the framing. Important to level and plumb your door when setting but you also want to make sure it is square as well by pulling diagonal measurement to make sure they are the same. Being square trumps being level and plumb in my book since the building you are setting the door in isn't always level and plumb.

Thanks KZ, I'm glad I came back in to double check everything in between finishing the 7th panel and laying out/doing final cuts for the 8th. You worded this very understandably; and, helped to confirm that the measurements I've marked are right. :D (I tend to take the "Measure twice / cut once" expression to extremes; but, it saves a LOT on materials.) I definitely agree on the square versus plumb/level point. This small of a building can always be re-leveled (and will probably need to be from time to time); but, if the door isn't square, no amount of leveling is going to help it. Something I should've mentioned; but, neglected to do so is that (on something like this) I've always used a couple of strips of what I'm going to use for flooring on the bottom, to retain the squaring and to hold everything together when moving things around. A little fishing line helps hold things together, as well; and, if it gets jammed in, it's thin enough to not really matter.

My sincere thanks to all 3 of you who've helped. I've done things like this a few times over the decades; but, they've always been several years apart. The last one I did was about 4 or 5 years ago; and, there's been one heck of a lot of "water under the bridge" since then. ;) I'll post a link to pics when I get it all done.

cool KZ, I hope it keeps you good and warm

Always good to have the openings on the big side and fur them in if need be...if they are too small it will take longer to get things right. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Sounds like you have things well under way with the building. Don't forget to post up a pic of it when you're all done, along with one of your 'Honda Civic Pickup'. I gotta see that...Good Luck

I had sort of an off day today; so, I spent more time "wandering in circles" (framing a window that I later decided not to use, hunting the thresholds that I know I have around here SOMEWHERE, etc.) than actually getting things accomplished; but, I got things figured out and (mostly) laid out for tomorrow. I found out that some scrap wood that I had to haul off with the door wasn't all busted up and rotted; and, in it, I found a usable jamb for each side. I'll need to either use a couple of 2x6's or rip them down to 3 1/2" wide; but, by the time I got them dug out, cleaned up, and checked to make sure they matched up to the door, it was getting too late and too cold to decide which I was going to do.

I'll definitely take pics and either upload them here; or, put them on my web site and post a link. LOL, I definitely "get some looks" over the pallet on the back; but, the way I scavenge, there's just not room to stuff everything inside. That's not even counting having to haul in 240#s of dog food every month to keep my pack fed... It started out about a year ago, when I bought a table saw at the pawn shop in town. I didn't feel like dismantling it; but, obviously, it wouldn't fit in the car. I snagged the pallet out of a dumpster, rigged it onto the back bumper, supported by rope draped over the top of the hatch-back and sloped to the back corners of the pallet; then, loaded the table saw onto that, tied it down, and got it home. Before I got around to taking it off, I needed to go to Shawnee for dog food (as usual, I had the car full of stuff that I didn't feel up to unloading at the moment); so, I just loaded the dog food onto it and tied it down. It worked great; so, the pallet became sort of a fixture and hasn't come off of there since. It's getting due for a new rope; so, I'll wind up needing to do that; but, (at least) until I can get my truck back on the road, it's too handy to get rid of... Somewhere along the way, it got nicknamed my "Honda Civic pickup truck..." :p LOL, You should've seen some of the stuff I hauled (back in the 80's) on a 400/4 Honda motorcycle!!! Probably the worst was a full sized hot water heater (destined to become a bar-b-q'er) AND about 200 feet of 4-0, 4 strand insulated wire - at the same time, no less... I got lit up on that load; but, didn't get a ticket. The cop just wanted to make sure that he hadn't been hallucinating... ;p It was pretty obvious that I was headed straight home - if I'd even tried to get off the bike, it would've toppled over... What the heck - the tank was free; and, I got a deal that I couldn't pass up on the wire that I needed to move my welding machine down to a shop that was on the 10 acres where I was living, instead of having to weld stuff outside and constantly have to be on fire watch while trying to weld... {shrug} It DID help that I had built the luggage rack out of 2" angle iron and 3/4" re-bar - which, a couple of years later, caused me to "win a fight with a pickup" that made a sudden left turn in front of me. That's a story for another time, though; since, I need to catch up on the sleep I missed earlier today, due to a couple of phone calls. (It sucks being an owl in a lark world... How would these folks like it if I called them at 3am...)

good nylon rope probably isn't cheap these days. In fact, it wasn't cheap the last time I bought some, ten or 12 years ago, but it sure works well, and lasts a long time too

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Originally Posted by Bear

good nylon rope probably isn't cheap these days. In fact, it wasn't cheap the last time I bought some, ten or 12 years ago, but it sure works well, and lasts a long time too

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It sure isn't; and, a lot of what's out there now is crap compared to real nylon braided rope; but, the better stuff is still a better value in the long run. I NEVER tie a hard knot in ANY of my ropes, though; so, I never have to cut them to get them loose. I'm fortunate that I learned how to tie a slip knot before I learned how to tie my shoelaces. :p

I finished getting everything framed up today! :D I'd hoped to get to sleep early last night; so, I could get an earlier start on skinning it out with the OSB; but, I pulled "my usual" of waking up after just about an hour and a half; then, not being able to get back to sleep. (After all these years of being an owl, I ought to know better; but, I keep thinking that one of these times, I'll be able to pull it off...) Hopefully, I'll be able to wake up early enough to both get it covered and to get started on the floor section. The floor will be easy - just a lot of cutting and nailing. I pre-drill all my nail holes; so, nailing stuff together goes pretty fast. I talked to a painting contractor, who had a LOT of partial buckets of paint that are just taking up space; so, I'm hoping to run over to Shawnee Mon. to pick up a bunch of it. If the weather's decent Wed. (Tues. will probably be too cold to paint, especially with 7 dogs around...), I'm hoping to get everything painted; or, at least the parts that can't be gotten to once this thing's in place. (The north end will be up against the south side of the west end of a 53' semi-trailer; and, the south end of the east side will be up against the nose of a 40' semi-trailer. There's about an 8' foot gap in between the two, which is fenced in as a quarantine pen for new rescues; and, as "the puppy jail" for when anyone misbehaves; so, that part would be a hassle, too.) Anyway, it's just going to be one heck of a lot easier to paint it all before I put it together. The way that OSB drinks paint, painting might take longer than I'm hoping. If it's warm and windy enough to dry quickly, I might be able to get all of the coats done in one afternoon.

I noticed that earlier on I mentioned 8 sections (fibro-fog strikes again - it's extremely exasperating that, when I push myself too hard physically, my brain goes out the window), actually, there are 6 sections - 4 side sections and the 2 end sections.

I'm going to try to get a nap while it's still too dark and cold to get anything done. I just can't seem to function on just a couple of hours of sleep the way that I once could. :(

knowing knots is a necessity, my main ones being a bowline and a half-hitch. Sometimes in a pinch, if the ends barely reach, I'll use a square knot. There are others as well, but those are the main ones I use

I hope your weather holds out till you get that thing together there KZ