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the exact diff between 1 & 2 is what I am asking
is it just based on the dull layer of rust?
also how does and why does wire thickness come into play? like does really thin strands of wire have to be put with the number 2 even though it is bare and bright?
also what about pipes? does it have to be shiny brand new to be put in with number 1?
what about dull pipe that has solder and other contaminants compared to dull pipe that is just plain copper?
I believe the difference between #1 and #2 is that #2 is not clean and you can make #2 into #1 by removing elements of solder, paint and other contaminates.
Quick video here helps:
iScrap: Turn #2 Copper Pipe into #1 Copper Pipe - YouTube
If you stripped a welding cable even though it is bright it would have to go in the #1.
Bare and bright needs to be solid conductor which is 14 gauge of larger . You can have a cable like 1/0 which will have several smaller solid 14 or 12 gauge conductors, you just cant have the really fine strands wire like a welding cable is made of in your bare and bright.
Only wire which has been stripped will be bare and bright. If the wire is tinned it must go in the #2. If you burn wire it will have to go in the #1 if it is large enough or #2 if it is stranded like a 16 or 14 gauge extension cord.
Pipe even if it is new and bright is still not bare and bright, it will be #1. Pipe that is tarnished and not to badly corroded without solder joints will go for #1. Any pipe that has solder joints or is badly corroded (green) or have paint will have to go in the #2.
The yards I use don't have a bare bright class for copper, only #1 and #2. #1 has to be thicker than a #2 pencil lead and clean, tubing can be #1 if it's clean (no solder or any other contaminates) #2 copper is anything thinner than #2 pencil lead or any wire with solder or heavy corrosion on it. It's my understanding that they pay less for thin wire because some gets lost in the processing.
if your yard is not buying your wire as bare bright they are not treating you right. Heavy gauge wire that is bright and shiny is bare bright all day long. I would bet after you leave your yard they sort out the wire from the number 1. Bare bright is worth about .30 cents more a pound than number 1 some times more. hope this is helpfull
This yard kind of explains it and has some pictures for an example, hope it helps. Of course you know that every yard is a little different on how they classify things. There is a book with the "legal descriptions" but it's up to your yard and how they want it, if you don't like it then you might have to find a different yard.Quote:
the exact diff between 1 & 2 is what I am asking
is it just based on the dull layer of rust?
also how does and why does wire thickness come into play? like does really thin strands of wire have to be put with the number 2 even though it is bare and bright?
http://rockawayrecycling.com/newaspx...materials.aspx
oh... im sooo confused, i thought bare bright was number one? can anyone link to a guide that would explain the different grades of copper? I have ALOT
*edit* ahhh, just saw post above, thnx
...how come theres no #2 wire in that guide?
also i just stripped this ancient huge thing of copper cable, it started out at about over an inch thick and then unrolled into 4 cables along side some cardboard like rope which was all bound together with string. i was able to strip the casing off the copper simply by ripping it off with my hands pretty easily. for some reason the copper came out black... also underneath the casing was some paper thats sticking to a lot of the copper, should i just leave that on since the copper already *looks* pretty dirty?
Just sayin, most of the vids from them are not too helpful. Not enough info in tmemQuote:
Originally Posted by NoviceScrapper
Bluemeate, try this link. It's pretty easy to understand. But, like everyone has stated, each yard has their own way of doing things.
Copper Recycling
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemeate
should these three all be thrown in the same pile? (after removing the aluiminum, of course)
http://imageshack.us/a/img209/189/120925001.jpg
My yard would consider all 3 types as "Bare Bright." So, I would put them all together. You are going to strip them, right?
All yards are different. Some might say #1.
ISRI SPECS! The first spec is bare bright...
No. 1 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of No. 1 bare, uncoated, unalloyed copper
wire, not smaller than No. 16 B & S wire gauge.
Green copper wire and hydraulically compacted
material to be subject to agreement between buyer
and seller.
No. 1 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of clean, untinned, uncoated, unalloyed
copper wire and cable, not smaller than No. 16 B
& S wire gauge, free of burnt wire which is brittle.
Hydraulically briquetted copper subject to agreement.
No. 2 COPPER WIRE
Shall consist of miscellaneous, unalloyed copper
wire having a nominal 96% copper content (minimum
94%) as determined by electrolytic assay.
Should be free of the following: Excessively leaded,
tinned, soldered copper wire; brass and bronze wire;
excessive oil content, iron, and non-metallics; copper
wire from burning, containing insulation; hair wire;
burnt wire which is brittle; and should be reasonably
free of ash. Hydraulically briquetted copper subject
to agreement.
No. 1 HEAVY COPPER
Shall consist of clean, unalloyed, uncoated copper
clippings, punchings, bus bars, commutator segments,
and wire not less than 1/16 of an inch thick, free of
burnt wire which is brittle; but may include clean copper
tubing. Hydraulically briquetted copper subject to
agreement.
No. 2 COPPER
Shall consist of miscellaneous, unalloyed copper
scrap having a nominal 96% copper content (minimum
94%) as determined by electrolytic assay.
Should be free of the following: Excessively leaded,
tinned, soldered copper scrap; brasses and bronzes;
excessive oil content, iron and non-metallics; copper
tubing with other than copper connections or
with sediment; copper wire from burning, containing
insulation; hair wire; burnt wire which is brittle; and
should be reasonably free of ash. Hydraulically briquetted
copper subject to agreement.
Bluemate...reading those wires from left to right: The first 2 are #2 ICW, the third one would be #1 ICW and the last one is EC wire. I wouldn't mix them altogether per little726 suggestion. My guess is they allow him to mix all types of copper because they pay him significantly less. Here is what I would pay you today at my yard for your copper:
#1 Cu- $3.38
#2 Cu- $3.19
Bare Bright- $3.49
I am no longer going to be stripping the wire, too daunting of a task... that the right word? daunting?Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemeate
I called the yard and got the answer that all house wire stranded/not stranded goes in together. i told him i have lots of 12 through 8 gauge "and he said throw it all in together, its all the same"
now im wondering if i can just toss this in with the house wire or MUST i strip off the plastic and aluminum? feeling pretty lazy and all that is already boxed up
http://imageshack.us/a/img341/8890/120925005.jpg
oh by the way, yall have been really helpful, thanks alot!
You may be right about the price difference, Mr. BohemianLush! The prices you posted are great. I guess I need to move to Denver!Quote:
Originally Posted by BohemianLush
I'm curious as to how much Blue was paid for his insulated wire? I'm thinking about half of stripped wire.