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Kuboat Engine Adaptor - Page 2

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  1. #21
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    Watching that video makes me think you have an engine that has been waiting to go to work. Mike

    "Profit begins when you buy NOT when you sell." {quote passed down to me from a wise man}

    Now go beat the copper out of something, Miked


  2. #22
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by miked View Post
    Watching that video makes me think you have an engine that has been waiting to go to work. Mike
    Just got lucky, I hate paying that much money for an engine that I have not heard run,

    The bell housing once removed will look similar to the one shown below with a large perfect circle dead center, I'll use the metal lathe at the farm to turn out a blank to fit that hole. The blank will have a one inch hole drilled dead center in which a dowel maybe placed to hold my reference point on the one inch thick steel plate.

    Using transfer punches I'll make the center punched holes where the holes need to be placed, that will take care of mounting the plate to the Kubota engine. As for the Mazda side I'm not afforded the same luxury of finding the center of the crankshaft this easy and will have to resort to measuring hole centers from either the tractor bell housing or those drilled into the engine block.

    A nice coating of machinists bluing applied to the thick metal plate will help to make my scribes visible.

    Still have to find an oil pan and dip stick for the Kubota engine, could make one but would rather purchase an OEM.



  3. #23
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    This adapter plate was made by someone else from another forum, he cheated in that the placement of the Satoh engine bell housing holes were made over sized then he welded washers to compensate. I believe this plate was made to use as a template. At any rate he got the job done, the tractor shown ion my first post is proof of a completed project.

    The OP from the other forum is no longer an active member, so I find myself an orphan with my own project.


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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    The SAE bell housing gets tossed, in its place a one inch thick steel plate gets bolted to the V2203, the Mazda bolt pattern is transferred to the plate. Flywheel gets machined in thickness, pilot bearing added then holes drilled to fit the Mazda pressure plate.

    Everything gets done in house from my shop with the exception of cutting the one inch plate.
    wanna ship me the old bellhousing? I'm planning to put a v2203di in a 1946 willys

  6. #25
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lousypirate View Post
    wanna ship me the old bellhousing? I'm planning to put a v2203di in a 1946 willys
    Your 46 Willys with a V2203 DI would be awesome, Ranger and S10 swaps are reporting 40 mpg,

    I'm having some difficulty thinking in how the SAE bell housing I have would help you other than using it to get measurements to make a similar adapter plate to mate the engine to the Jeep transmission. If you look at the picture I posted of the template another fellow made you'll notice that the hole patterns from a perfect circle. This is called the hole circle a term used when identifying a wheel rim a 5/5 represents five holes on a five inch circle.

    The five wheel rim holes evenly spaced, if you wanted to make wheel spacers you would center punch your first reference, then using a scribe make a five inch circle, center punch a reference point on the scribed circle.

    I use my vernier caliper but a divider which maybe locked in place will work as well, set the divider at say one inch then walk it around the outer circle starting from the center punch mark. After the walk about should the divider when intersecting the center punch mark is + or - of meeting the center punched mark dead on, Make fine adjustments to the divider then repeat the procedure until you have five evenly spaced marks.

    When doing layout work on metal it's nice to have a can of machinists bluing.

    The Satoh tractor bell housing has not been laid out from a circle pattern, one option would be to use a sheet of copper or aluminum to tap out a gasket aka Template. To do this task I would use my pinking hammer which is a small 3 ounce ball peen made especially for tapping out gaskets.

    The get the measurements transfered onto a steel plate from the Kubota bell housing I have purchased a full set of transfer punches.


  7. #26
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    The Kubota starter gets changed over to the opposed side.

    The tractor bell housing as you can see was cast to accept the nosecone and Bendix drive.


  8. #27
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lousypirate View Post
    wanna ship me the old bellhousing? I'm planning to put a v2203di in a 1946 willys
    The full scoop for your Willy's Kubota V2203 engine swap. Kubota Turbo V2203 into 1946 Willys CJ2a


  9. #28
    lousypirate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alloy2 View Post
    The full scoop for your Willy's Kubota V2203 engine swap. Kubota Turbo V2203 into 1946 Willys CJ2a

    not quite the same. I'm aware of the overlander swap.

    I plan to put mine behind a 2wd manual transmission on some radius arms with a gasser straight axle on bags (this is willy's #2)

    I already have one in the works for 4wd.

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    both 46s, green one to be 2wd, 4wd one with a 3800sc motor

  10. #29
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Just got off the phone with a Kubota dealer and it's going to take the rest of the day to get over the shock.

    V2203 parts list and dealer price

    Oil pan $301.00
    Gasket $50.43
    Dipstick tube $70.27
    Dipstick $20.42

    At those prices I'll fabricate my own.

    The good part is that the hole for the dipstick tube has not yet been drilled into the engine block. I can use any junkyard tube.

  11. #30
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Good news the dealer called back they have a used oil pan, dipstick and tube for $150.00 this I can live with.

    I've been scouring the Internet in search of a DWG or DXF drawing for the adapter plate that I need to make, nothing to be found. Someone posted the dimensions for the hole pattern on the Checy small block engine, from the drawing you can see just how easy it was to do.


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  13. #31
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    The tractor had to be split to remove the engine, the engine swap is now a work in progress.


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  15. #32
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lousypirate View Post
    wanna ship me the old bellhousing? I'm planning to put a v2203di in a 1946 willys
    My Kubota bell housing would be nothing more that a boat anchor or a paper weight for your Willy's project.

    The image below shows a Willy's bell housing attached to a V220 Kubota diesel engine.


  16. #33
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    At the farm today using the metal lathe and the plasma cutter to cut the rear off the back end of that Mazda engine. What a surprise I got using the new Hypertherm 85 amp plasma cutter. This new machine is truly awesome.


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  18. #34
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Have appointment will update later


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  20. #35
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    Progress is lookin good...Keep the pictures coming...

  21. #36
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    All engines share the fact that the bell housing bolts all radiate from the crankshaft center, I fell asleep during geometry lessons and have to working things out in a logical way that suits my brain.

    The laser rounds have a 3/8" hole blasted on dead center, using the transfer punches I was able to mark the placement of each engines bell housing bolt locations. The Mazda bolt pattern was the first to be transferred, then the Kubota bell housing with it's crankshaft locater was doweled into position to make the remaining marks.

    Having learned from the OP from the other forum who had already done this swap took advantage to correct his mistake with my adapter. What I had to do was rotate the Kubota bell housing 5 degrees to the right to make clearance for the starter. He instead had to grind some external ribs off of his engine block.

    This is my last forum post, god bless all you hard working scrappers.


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  23. #37
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    Take care, thank you and 73. Mike

    Made my first QSO in about 9 years on 40 mtrs last night. CW of course. It was nice to be free from the tread mill that scraping had become.

    As the dolphins said in "The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" "Thanks for all the fishes". Mike

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  25. #38
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    Quote Originally Posted by miked View Post
    Take care, thank you and 73. Mike

    Made my first QSO in about 9 years on 40 mtrs last night. CW of course. It was nice to be free from the tread mill that scraping had become.

    As the dolphins said in "The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" "Thanks for all the fishes". Mike
    Mike found this Realistic Mic this afternoon, noise cancellation with pre-amp and battery test has 5 pin din. if you're interested in owning this gem pay the postage and its yours

    Send a PM for my email address.

    Last edited by alloy2; 05-08-2017 at 10:37 PM.

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  27. #39
    alloy2 started this thread.
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    This project is going much slower than anticipated, here's a dummy pilot shaft that I turned from wood then soaked in boiled linseed oil. The dummy shaft will help align the clutch disk during installation.

    The old clutch was fairly decent but showed signs of wear on the old disk which was not really intended for tractor use with a PTO not equipped with an over run clutch, this solid disk is an improvement.



    Last edited by alloy2; 06-09-2017 at 11:52 PM.

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  29. #40
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    "This project is going much slower than anticipated"

    Don't they always


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