Results 1 to 10 of 10

simple evaparator

| Made From Scrap

Threaded View

  1. #7
    NHscrapman started this thread.
    NHscrapman's Avatar
    SMF Badges of Honor


    Member since
    Jan 2013
    Location
    new hampshire
    Posts
    1,582
    Thanks
    4,076
    Thanked 2,176 Times in 941 Posts
    Yes I completely agree with trying to get the stove pipe as high on the stove as possible. Anyone trying to build one of these should do just that IMO... that's just good advise. In my case... which is usually the case...lol, that was thwarted by not only enough room on the top for both the pan and stove pipe, but also a inward concave on the backside. The space between the bottom of the pan to the back wall is around 1/2 inch of space...pretty tight I thought? The top of the pipe is lined up right at the bottom of the pan. From what I have gathered there is adequate draft due to the pan taking up almost all available space up top but not enough air intake to keep the fire going with the door closed. It would smolder out but the smoke was 99% coming out the stove pipe. I plan on adding more vents to the bottom area of the door to increase the air intake perhaps a sliding cover to control it as well. My father runs an actual wood stove that he torched out the top and has an insert pan like mine. He needs to run with his door cracked to keep enough air coming in to keep the hot fire needed for boiling.
    As far as putting it inside.. the "shack" is a simple three sided structure with a metal roof. Not air tight in the least basically a place to get out of the elements off the ground and cover the evaporator from ash and debris. Maybe 1 foot of pipe inside the actual structure, but again, point well taken.
    I enjoy tinkering on my projects, no rush to get it all perfect, it's working at the cost of a little torch fuel and a saws all blade. I chose this barrel because the steel is a little over 1/8'' thick and can withstand the long boils much better than a 55 gallon drum... IMO... taking the good with the bad I suppose. My boiling pan will not be welded to the stove, I use them as an insert piece. there is the door latch catch, door handle, hinge, support base and inner grate all need to be welded into place. Although..... welding on the boiling pan means you need some sort of drain system to get the unfinished syrup into your finishing pan.... could be a simple shutoff.. there are endless ways to play with these. I had my stainless pan made to mimic the old style pan. It will fit on a 4 burner stove but also large enough to put over fire without constant adjusting but small enough to pick up and dump out.

    Last edited by NHscrapman; 03-28-2015 at 07:19 PM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

 
Browse the Most Recent Threads
On SMF In THIS CATEGORY.





OR

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

The Scrap Metal Forum

    The Scrap Metal Forum is the #1 scrap metal recycling community in the world. Here we talk about the scrap metal business, making money, where we connect with other scrappers, scrap yards and more.

SMF on Facebook and Twitter

Twitter Facebook