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  1. #21
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    I actually saved the heat sink bottoms for later scrapping, I will try to bash those motors but they look thick.



  2. #22
    recyclocan's Avatar
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    How far to go?

    So I think I'm getting better at this but curious of really how for to take my sorting? I know everyone puts a different value to their time but all things equal, is it better to sort stuff down as far as possible? Example... aluminum by quality or thickness? Copper Wire by thickness? Steel by cast etc?

    Again, I apologize for my newbie terminology

    Cheers.

  3. #23
    volvoscrapper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by recyclocan View Post
    So I think I'm getting better at this but curious of really how for to take my sorting? I know everyone puts a different value to their time but all things equal, is it better to sort stuff down as far as possible? Example... aluminum by quality or thickness? Copper Wire by thickness? Steel by cast etc?

    Again, I apologize for my newbie terminology

    Cheers.
    I would say that sorting, like most things, depends on what your customer wants to buy. whenever I'm not sure I leave the stuff at home, but for a small sample. I show it to my customer (the guy at the yard who gives me money) and ask him how he wants to buy it.

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  5. #24
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    I have found it all depends on your yard, I was separating sheet aluminum from casted, dirty, etc but my yard only gives me a set price for aluminum regardless what form it's in which means they take the lowest quality pay rate and apply it to all; you loose some money on your "better" aluminum at my yard.

    Quote Originally Posted by eesakiwi View Post
    You need a face sheild & glasses & sledgehammer to bash them apart.
    The cast iron breaks easy like with a sledge hammer. Or just use a carpenters chisle & hammer to cut thru the copper wire loops on one end, then pull the rest of the copper wire out.

    The pics of the sheet metal surrounded motor, bash the outer casing at the point where theres a gap between the sheetmetal & the laminations, that'l make is squarer & loosen it so it may slide off.
    I tried and this did not work, it only crushed the sheet metal housing and began folding. Now its more oval shaped so I need a new method....

  6. #25
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    Floyd, do you maybe have another yard around that has a better rate for alum.?? May have to juggle your stuff between the yards.
    You know, figure who has what better price.
    P & M Recycling - Specializing in E-Waste Recycling.
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    for just aluminum there's only two choices here, one separates it and the other don't. I make sure to know what they're paying before I go though. A simple call first can sure save you some headaches

  8. #27
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    It's the best yard within a 20min drive which works for my bed size and profit amount, it's a matter of loosing a few cents per lb not like I have that much aluminum that is super clean and in solid block form anyway. Trust me, you just have to get back at the yard and cheat them back within toleration

  9. #28
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    its hard to tell you how to seperate as many yards class things different.here in southern ohiothere are 2 aluminium prices.regular and aluminium wheels.now we need to seperate our cast from sheet but the price is the same.on the steel if your area is like mine anything as thick as a lawnmower deck pays better than the thin shred items.we call them shred/tin/appliance.anything that is thick enough and is no more than 2 feet wide by 4 feet long is called short iron,so i seperate that,any thing the same thickness but longer is long iron.in the recent years long iron often pays the same as shred so i always call to see the difference in price befor i seperate,or to decide if i want to cut the long down to short,also to be short or long iron grade it needs to be free of wood,plastic,aluminium or anything else.around here they wont mind a touch of aluminium or something thats really fused to something as long as its 98 percent clean.it will take you time to learn what your yard wants.i read in hear earlier someone telling you to bust those motor casings,thats what i do also .any cast iron will break fairly easy.also on our wire if it is shiny or bigger than a pencil lead we get number 1 if not number 2.and that means not varnished,painted,or coated.we just recently have been outlawed from burning the wire in my state.so our copper grading is in the process of changing drasticly.anyhow i hope this may help you a bit

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  11. #29
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    Lightbulb

    So I have been getting pretty good at this over time, now I want to expand

    It dawned on me...when I tear things apart trash costs $ to dispose of and the town takes all plastic away for free and you can drop as much of it as you want off for free at the landfill so plastic in bulk must be worth something somewhere?!?

    Also it has come to my attention that some scrap yards also buy circuit boards? That would be an awesome nitch to get into, the TVs and Computers I take apart all have circuit boards and some places pay per dead motherboard or by weight. Any recommendations/thoughts??

    Rather then pulling motors apart for the copper now I just bring them as is and they have a class/price per pound for electric motors that is high enough for me to not bother dissembling them unless they have an aluminum case, they take everything from a bucket of drill motors to large industrial motors for factory machines all the same price!

  12. #30
    4barrel's Avatar
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    For the power supplies with copper heat pipes running through them, I keep those separate from the rest of my aluminum and get 'Alum/Copper rads' price for them, usually .80-1.10. If you get a bunch of them you'll see the difference in your pocket.

  13. #31
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    Also it has come to my attention that some scrap yards also buy circuit boards? That would be an awesome nitch to get into, the TVs and Computers I take apart all have circuit boards and some places pay per dead motherboard or by weight. Any recommendations/thoughts??
    Go thru our sections and know what circuit boards are worth more than others. Then check out our buyers after checking the yard's prices for boards, you should be surprised at the price differences. By all means do the reading so you don't get taken at the yards.
    It's your work, it's your money, don't give it away.

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  14. #32
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    What power supplies with copper pipes, you mean PC power supplies with that tiny piece of copper in their heat sinks?

    Wow those threads are a bit complex, I thought grading could be done by color and size of components on the board I will deff have to check with my local buyers to see how simple they want things!

  15. #33
    Mechanic688's Avatar
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    What power supplies with copper pipes, you mean PC power supplies with that tiny piece of copper in their heat sinks
    I think he was referring to the heat sinks with copper tubing running thru it

  16. #34
    PinkFloydEffect started this thread.
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    Regarding electronic board scrapping with all the various grades, I see some people on Youtube fill buckets with the components off the boards such as capacitors, diodes, IC chips and gold fingers. If I am stripping components off the boards will places still take the boards for whatever is left?? I assume this drastically alters the price per lb for the boards and when they are stripped possibly there is less need to grade/sort them so specifically?? It seems like the real money is in selling bags full of board components on say eBay, which is what I am trying to weigh out...should I sell the boards as is or sell the components off the boards in bulk?

    Any idea if cracked LCD screens are worth money from laptops, TVs and monitors?

    Usually I cut the power cords off electronics and throw them in my light iron loads so I have barrels of wire...today I sorted the wire into three categories. Copper core, aluminum core (silver color), and copper coated aluminum, I was surprised to find that well over 80% of my wire is copper core. My old boss used to throw his wire in the fire and melt off all the plastic illegally then I believe he only got #2 copper for them, someone told me today they sell their wire with the plastic on it and their buyers can make money off the plastic as well as the wire itself plus this means the wire is clean #1 instead of burnt up #2 all in all selling the wire with the plastic shielding seems more profitable then burning it.


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