Pokemonprime's Scrapping Finds

Decided to start a thread in the vein of those by taterjuice ("Tater Strikes Again - The Taterjuice Thread") and others, since threads like those are my favorite to read, I figured I'd make one as well. First finds are fresh off the presses, curb shopped around 9:20 PM today, loaded with hopes and prayers by the beams of a pair of headlights.

First, three bikes, 2 "complete" (They look to be all there, but I need a better look at them by daylight) and 1 partial, seemingly frame only.


I also picked up an old pool pump. Dunno what value there in this, if any. Anyone able to throw out a suggestion?

Been picking up cans as I've normally been for a couple days. Today, I came across two plastic bags, each with about 4 Bud Light cans stuffed in them, thrown off the side of the road. Never thought I'd find bags of cans while walking down the road with a bag of cans.

My late father in law would fix up the bikes he found and sell them for way more than scrap at our yard sales. He had about 15 to 20 bikes at each sale! LOL Also wheelbarrows. Pool pump motors can go in with electric motors here. Also if the motor works you could sell it for more than scrap value which is $.15 a pound here. Keep the thread going, I like to see what people find as well!

2 of the three bikes looked pretty roasted, actually, well-loved is the best term. There's obvious evidence that they had a long life, and many patchjob repairs along that line. One of them looks salvageable, but it might be kept for my little brother. The pool pump looks pretty roasted as well, but I'll certainly look into it Do you have any idea how I could test it? Also picked up an old Gateway CRT monitor, which I've been taking apart. A bunch of the wire in the monitor looks to be aluminum, unfortunately. Also, what is the "misc aluminum" category? Like, I have some random bits of shielding, heatsinks, old aluminum food trays, bits of aluminum foil, and that aluminum wire, and I'd like to just throw them in a big group.

There shouldnt be any alum wire in a crt monitor. Tv's can have alum degrausing wires. Especialy Zeniths tv's

Are you talking about the silver wire going around the back of the glass?? Thats tinned copper if thats what your looking at

Around here heat sinks could go as extruded aluminum, the foil as dirty alum. If you scrap the bikes check the rims to see if they are aluminum. Also remove any easy alum parts brake handles and the clamp that holds the seat on. Even if you sell these items as dirty alum better than shred price!

To Patriot76: Me & my dad have been looking for a good source of 5 gallon buckets, I'll see if I can track down any local painting contractors or similar outfits. Thanks for the tip.

To Greytruck: They were the wires running around the back of the monitor, so I guess they're tinned copper then. What do they go for then? I assume a pretty low grade wire.
To hobo finds: I'll make sure to pull anything aluminum. One of the scrap candidates even has an aluminum frame

Tinned copper will actually go in your #2 copper wire so it's pretty good.

Originally Posted by Pokemonprime

To Greytruck: They were the wires running around the back of the monitor, so I guess they're tinned copper then. What do they go for then? I assume a pretty low grade wire.

Here, currently one yard pays $1.80 for #2 copper and $1.93 for tinned copper.

Really? I typically think the less "pure" the metal is the lower the price, and that tinned copper under insulation is a lot less pure than just copper under insulation, but what do I know. I've been meaning to call the yard for a couple days now and ask them whether they take a pool pump as aluminum breakage or motors, so I guess I'll ask them about tinned copper wiring as well.

Originally Posted by Pokemonprime

Really? I typically think the less "pure" the metal is the lower the price, and that tinned copper under insulation is a lot less pure than just copper under insulation, [...] ask them about tinned copper wiring as well.

Real tin is over $8 /lb wholesale last I looked

The big thick black tape wrapped wire goes in #2 insulated wire and the thin silver colored wire can go in with #2 copper here as well

Well, started tearing into the pool pump today. I know you guys said to try and sell it on, but it's a real basket case. Tearing it apart today, I could break through the metal with a screwdriver in places, and the paint just came off in sheets. Anyways, I'm glad I didn't cart it in as aluminum breakage, because it has copper windings! Got one end off of it, and removed the large capacitor from its enclosure on the side, and now I'm stuck trying to figure out how to remove the windings.

the capacitor can go in with dirty aluminum around here.

Removing copper windings from an electric motor requires proper tools, technique, and patience. On this forum's search function, enter removing copper windings or similar language. There is plenty of information there. You'll have to see what works for you and if it's worth the effort to do so. Your technique and speed will improve with the more you do.

What I do is use an abrasive cut off wheel an cut the windings flush with the case at one end. You can also use a hammer and old wood chisel or a recipro saw to do the same. I prefer the cutoff wheel because it leaves a nice clean cut. Set the case in a vice or on top of a couple blocks of sorts. Than using a blunt punch or bolt and hammer, begin to progressively tap out the windings, going in a circular motion. The object here is to push out as a unit, rather than individually, until they are free, or able to be removed from the other end. Use pliers, grips, or pry bars/screwdrivers to free. TIP: Use a razor knife or similar and cut thru a good portion of the string on the windings before you begin. By the time you are done most of the string pieces will be laying on the floor. Less work. SAFETY INFO: dust mask, ear plugs, safety glasses, gloves at minimum should be used.

There are other ways, but this method works best for me. Small motors (house fans)are easier than larger motors, but bear less copper. Hope this helps.

Removing copper windings from an electric motor requires proper tools, technique, and patience. On this forum's search function, enter removing copper windings or similar language. There is plenty of information there. You'll have to see what works for you and if it's worth the effort to do so. Your technique and speed will improve with the more you do.
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What I do is use an abrasive cut off wheel and cut the windings flush with the case at one end. You can also use a hammer and old wood chisel or a recipro saw to do the same. I prefer the cutoff wheel because it leaves a nice clean cut. Set the case in a vice or on top of a couple blocks of sorts. Than using a blunt punch or bolt and hammer, begin to progressively tap out the windings, going in a circular motion. The object here is to push out as a unit, rather than individually, until they are free, or able to be removed from the other end. Use pliers, grips, or pry bars/screwdrivers to free. TIP: Use a razor knife or similar and cut thru a good portion of the string on the windings before you begin. By the time you are done most of the string pieces will be laying on the floor. Less work. SAFETY INFO: dust mask, ear plugs, safety glasses, gloves at minimum should be used.

There are other ways, but this method works best for me. Small motors (house fans)are easier than larger motors, but bear less copper. Hope this helps.