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Another auction find - International 4200 - Page 2

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  1. #21
    armygreywolf's Avatar
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    Alright, well lets get this out of the way now. The shop you took it to is NOT a good shop. That said yes you absolutely MUST flush the cooling system. The presence of detergent style (diesel rated) oil in a cooling system can and will deteriorate the hoses, seals and so on.

    The FICM can be programmed, even if I can't do it I can walk right into the place a childhood friend of mine works at, install it on a truck and program it for YOUR truck. However...the step up board for the injector drivers is probably the culprit and this requires no programming. I would install a 53V step up board vs stock 48V anyways. Unlike alot of shops if I do find problems on the control board I can repair them rather than swapping boards since we are equipped for board level repairs at my shop.

    The oil cooler is in the same location, however on the 4200 the only thing that has to come out is the downpipe. Even if the turbo has to come out its all right there at the top of the motor with easy access. The thing I have to stress here is the CLEANING of the cooling system. Your shop fails to understand that coolant passes through the egr and with the presence of oil it wouldn't be long for this world to operate it like that.

    HNC Medium And Heavy Duty Truck Parts Online | Ford Water Pumps & Cooling System : VT365 Oil Cooler Kit 1886511C93



    The above is just one of many parts houses that supplies coolers. Like I said these things are pretty cheap, they are also common failure points of these trucks, The bulletproof fix is the sinister diesel external oil cooler with adapter plate. I personally wouldn't run it because then you lose the ability to warm the oil up with coolant temperature when the engine is cold. (being that you live in idaho that is kind of important if your also running a block heater)
    WI ITAD LLC, IT Liquidation Services, we remarket, buy and sell scrap electronics No customer too large or small!


  2. #22
    IdahoScrapper started this thread.
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    Sounds like first thing is actually getting the thing running. PM your address and Iíll ship the FICM. Do you work on ECM? One of the harness sockets is broken and doesnít seem to have a secure connection, though it was still plugged in when I removed it. Is that something you think I should have repaired?

    Dumb question, but do I flush before or after installing the new cooler? I am getting ahead of myself since itís not running.

    DieselTechRon on youtube seems quite knowledgeable, but so far I haven't seen any of his videos state if it's done before or after.
    Last edited by IdahoScrapper; 03-25-2017 at 11:29 AM.



  3. #23
    armygreywolf's Avatar
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    Before you just want to get as much oil out of the radiator as possible, as well as out of the hoses and lines. When you change the cooler dont fill the system back up until the truck is running again. Your going to do more flushing after it's running with a new cooler. You will fill it with purple power and water or something similar and flush it out over and over until its running clear.

    The ecm should be fine, if anything add a zip tie to keep the plug in place. They probably broke it trying to diagnose the problem before deciding to auction the truck. I'll pm you in a bit.

  4. #24
    armygreywolf's Avatar
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    Got the FICM today. nothing obvious, ohmed out fine and the caps are all within 5% of their rated capacity and are not leaking. I went ahead a did a reflow of the solder in the problem areas and ended up adding just a touch of solder to the caps, they were soldered but it looked rushed and not like a good joint at all.

    Tomorrow I have to go look at a box truck anyways so I will drop the ficm off to be flashed (and tested).




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