A Tumbleweeds View of Scrapping

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Originally Posted by KzScrapper

Well Patriot the painter scraper, scrapper comment was probably me so I do apologize for offending you. I never removed the post so not sure where it went.

Glad you stuck around as you are all about getting it done in a most professional manner and then passing that wisdom on to others here.

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It was not you because I would have remembered since you are a favorite on the forum. In addition, my entire family lives within 40 miles of your location, so I always look forward to your posts.

My post was to remind others that their posts impact new members, not to ask for apologies. The goal is to encourage others to take advantage of the natural resources before the government controls our life style and to welcome others that strive for our lifestyle without intimidation.

Pictures of the cedar shower. Caulking each joint was a pain in the a**.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psetv525ft.jpg

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psrsiaeng4.jpg

Beautiful.

Beautiful job. What did you use to seal the cedar?

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Originally Posted by Abuilder

Beautiful job. What did you use to seal the cedar?

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Just clear caulk. I put on a coat of stain and two coats of marine sealer on the wood before mounting it. Then caulked each joint with an expanding clear caulk.

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Originally Posted by Patriot76

Just clear caulk. I put on a coat of stain and two coats of marine sealer on the wood before mounting it. Then caulked each joint with an expanding clear caulk.

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Patriot A marine sealer will definitely protect the cedar but to make it easier to clean and give the finish a nice depth you could go over the whole thing with about three or four coats of water based floor polyurethane. The stuff is not only very water resistant but tough as nails.
The water base won’t change the color at all like oil base does and each coat will dry in two hours or less.

Deck sealer is also a little cheaper and clear to give it a nice shine.

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Originally Posted by Abuilder

Patriot A marine sealer will definitely protect the cedar but to make it easier to clean and give the finish a nice depth you could go over the whole thing with about three or four coats of water based floor polyurethane. The stuff is not only very water resistant but tough as nails.
The water base won’t change the color at all like oil base does and each coat will dry in two hours or less.

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You better do some research before you put a "water borne" product over a solvent base. You should be fine with what you already applied.
Applying a clear coat designed for floors to a vertical substrate is a bad idea. Always check with paint store or manufacturer before using a coating product for other than what it was designed for. My .02 with over 30 years as a painter and 20 as a painting contractor.

By the way Patriot nice job .Looks great.

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Originally Posted by junkfreak

You better do some research before you put a "water borne" product over a solvent base. You should be fine with what you already applied.
Applying a clear coat designed for floors to a vertical substrate is a bad idea. Always check with paint store or manufacturer before using a coating product for other than what it was designed for. My .02 with over 30 years as a painter and 20 as a painting contractor.

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Junkfreak
You may want to try it before you say don’t.
My user name is quite literal. 43 plus in the trades. Including paint, stain and refinishing. You see I specialize in restoration.
I even prefer to use water base floor polyurethane on my own furniture restores.
About the only thing I would be reluctant to overcoat with it is Shellac.
And no it will not pop off.

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Originally Posted by Abuilder

Junkfreak
You may want to try it before you say don’t.
My user name is quite literal. 43 plus in the trades. Including paint, stain and refinishing. You see I specialize in restoration.
I even prefer to use water base floor polyurethane on my own furniture restores.
About the only thing I would be reluctant to overcoat with it is Shellac.
And no it will not pop off.

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Oh I've done it and have had good and bad luck with it.
Always seems to want to start sagging on me with more than 2 coats.
I use water base poly all the time ,love it! Just never have had satisfying results putting floor finish on walls.

Junk
That milk is so watery THIN coats with a fine hair brush is the key. Heck it dies so fast you can almost recoat a door by the time you get to the bottom. LOL

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Originally Posted by Abuilder

Junk
That milk is so watery THIN coats with a fine hair brush is the key. Heck it dies so fast you can almost recoat a door by the time you get to the bottom. LOL

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Yeah its a time saver!
We're starting a 1725 restoration in the spring. Quaker home. 7000 sq addition on to 12000 sq existing three story. Looking forward to it. Owner has wanted to do a project like this her whole life. She's an 18th century historical designer.

Sorry for hi jack op

Just posted a couple of pictures on another thread and want to include them here. I have stated I am stock piling metal because of prices and other priorities. Non ferrous has been collected for a rainy day because of lack of knowledge. The rainy day has come and I am learning from the forum how to prepare it. Each of the tubes are at least half full. Tubes include electric motors, # 1 and # 2 copper, # 1 and # 2 wire, aluminum cast, aluminum sheet, aluminum breakage, brass, dirty brass, stainless steel, and batteries. There are various piles or buckets of different metals throughout the area. Buckets for screws, bolts, brackets, etc. are scattered throughout the shed. Outside the shed are several tubes for trash and piles for burning wood and other left others. Other priorities include cleaning a dump on the ranch used by three generations (pictures provided later) and two mountains of lawn mowers.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psmvgzfhio.jpg

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psow13tpbr.jpg

I use the same tubs to sort and stockpile material. They work great.

Good Morning Patriot...your PM Box is full.

Patriot,

You have your work cut out for you! Do you have a workbench there somewhere with a big honkin vise to help break down stuff?

The totes are something I've been thirsting after but around here they are about $100+ each. I use old barrels for scrap, mostly. They're free. Presumably you have a set of forks for your skidsteer to move the totes around....especially after you get a couple of tons of bare bright copper into one!! ;) Keep that one covered and out of sight!!

Is the building a "pole type" where each big column is treated and buried in the ground? It looks remarkably simple but it must somehow resist the winds that you must have down there on the prairies. The reason I ask is because I'm gonna start on a bigger shop this summer and I've been mulling over different designs.

I'm wanting to build something fairly well insulated but very fire-resistant on the inside because I do a lot of welding, cutting and grinding. I think my choices of "cheap" building materials for the inside would be concrete walls down low and drywall up higher. And I'm one of those guys whose contractors and subs are small time: My left hand is the general contractor and my right hand is my subcontractor. (I'm left handed...)

Jon.

Sawmilling,

Yes that is a pole shed built about sixty years ago. It has a concrete floor and sheet metal roof and side walls. The rafters have rotted and the roof is slowly blowing off. My shop is actually two concrete block walls and a third wall of sheet metal. No door. It is fire proof and keeps the wind and moisture off.

I have a unique set up and will provide pictures when I return to the ranch. The first is the vise set up. This includes an antique three foot vise and pipe vise. These are bolted into a fifty gallon barrel filled with concrete. Short of using the skid steer, you cannot move it. I am also lucky enough to have an anvil and block. This comes in very handy. The work bench consists of two five foot diameter wire spools salvaged from the utility company. They are a little tall, but very handy. The concrete barrel is used for hammering so the height is not a factor. The outdoor bench is made out of telephone poles buried in the ground. The shop benches are hard core wooden doors on a 2 x 6 frame bolted to the building. Metal shelves were made from drying racks that are 4 x 3 1/2 ft. and six ft. tall. Over 20 totes are scattered between this shed, the shop, and the outside prep station. These were gathered for free when first scrapping before the government started regulating them. We pay $ 100 each now as well. $ 2,000 worth of totes for free, that is a scrappers deal.

A little more perspective of the building. The previous pictures are only one third of the building. One third is used for hay and the other third is used for equipment and storage. If you look beyond the totes, you see the hay and the other third of the building is beyond it.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46e5f8e5.jpg

This is the lawnmower and engine corner. Twice as much sits outside.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psa630ab5f.jpg

You can see the antique wood burning stove to the left. I am reconditioning it for personal use or resell. The rest of the appliances were already prepared and taken to the appropriate location.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90246d1f.jpg

Patriot,

Thanks for the extra views!

Always interesting to hear about different ways to skin a cat! My current shop has a couple of workbenches I built with steel box tubing and the top is 1-1/8" Birch plywood.

The concrete barrel idea is fantastic. I'll bet you can use a 36" pipe wrench on the vise with a snipe and nothing moves but what you are wrenching on!!

I have an outside steel table for welding that I nabbed from an industrial surplus sale. It is made from 1/2" plate with a 6" channel frame. Its great for welding because you just ground the table and you are in business....unless the kid has just spray painted something the day before....grumble....

Are those zero turn mowers scrap? They look a little tired but aren't they pricey little devils when trying to buy one?

I had a half dozen old wood cookstoves and parlour stoves and one neat old stove that was part woodstove, part electric cookstove. Found I couldn't use them in the house because they didn't have any approval stamps, so they went to the scrapyard. I guess I shoulda tried to sell them for more than scrap... but that was a while ago, before I found the SMF.

Jon.