I've handled several of these. If you can remove it with the frame still connected and transport it in one piece, it is worth much more than scrap value. You might want to have a look at the SAVTA website
to find a safe technician in your area and ask them if they would like to make an offer on it.
You must get the frame though. It's pretty useless second hand without it.
If you have to scrap it, open up the back panel (you may need a separate key for this), photograph the inside well and then remove the lock, boltwork, relockers, glass plate - everything you can that moves or unscrews. Try and keep the boltwork in one piece.
If you get the name and model number of the door (name should be on the front, model number should be on a little plaque on the rear of the door) you can ebay
the lock and boltwork for good money.
I have never seen a vault door that is solid stainless - it is normally a 1-3mm stainless layer fixed to the door to stop your average idiot with oxy acetylene cutting gear.
Do not think about trying to remove the stainless from the door - you would be doing something the designers worked hard to prevent, and you will regret the day you started trying
UK vault doors differ from US vault doors, but over here a rectangular door and surround sized at 2100mm high, 1200m wide and 160mm deep weighs something like 3000 lb. A lower grade vault door and surround measuring 1900mm high, 900mm wide and 90mm deep weighs something like 2000 lb.
You might also be able to get the grille if there is one - the metal gate that is kept locked during the day when the vault is open. Again, worth much more on ebay or to a safe tech than scrap value. Again, if you can't get it in one piece, remove the lock and get all the keys for it as they ebay nicely.
Please bare in mind I speak from a UK perspective so vault door composition may differ in the US.
Be prepared though - vault doors are heavy and they take some proper tackle to move them safely.