So, I have some water heater pressure release valves. Anyone have any tricks for tearing them apart? I think in the past I have cut them apart with a hacksaw, but I was hoping for something a little quicker and simpler.
thanks, guys
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So, I have some water heater pressure release valves. Anyone have any tricks for tearing them apart? I think in the past I have cut them apart with a hacksaw, but I was hoping for something a little quicker and simpler.
thanks, guys
By far the quickest way I know that doesn't include a shredder. Only a few seconds each
Thornton Scrapper
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I find its easier to just do the hack saw method where you cut a slit in the middle, use wire cutters or a screw driver to spread the cut open (depends on the style of valve) and then pull back and forth to get the middle out. i find its to dangerous with the way they are round shaped to use a grinder, sawzall or hand held bandsaw in the vice cause it usually moves or comes loose and falls out. i dont want a blown up grinder blade to the face, and the sawzall is to violent and the valve definitely will not stay put in the vise and bend the blade.
I can get up to 3 - 5 water heaters a week and this works just fine for me.
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Okay. Thanks guys. I guess the old hacksaw the crap is the way to go.
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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I use bolt cutters to split open the top of the brass and then use pliers to remove the top along with the rod and spring.
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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I do like the cutoff wheel method nut I never get water heaters. I saw one video where he put several larger valves in a wood stove fire until they were red hot then pulled them out and wacked them with a big hammer. The brass broke away and the valve fell out.Originally Posted by t00nces2
Here I am cyberdan, at yardsales I am dollardan
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I also use the thin metal cutoff wheel on an angle grinder. Have never had one come apart on me, and I have done well over 100 release valves. After removing the steel valve or lever (or whatever you want to call it) at the very top, I place the body of the release valve on its side on my work bench (I use the end of my 16 ft flatbed trailer as a work bench) with the top facing me and start a vertical cut (blade is perpendicular to the body) at the top in the middle cutting both the body and the stainless steel cap at the top. If the cap is flat and recessed, continue cutting until you start cutting into the plunger valve, and the valve and the cap will eventually pop out. I use my pants leg to block the valve when it pops out, the spring is not all that strong, so it will not cause injury. Once it pops out, the rest is self explanatory. If the steel cap at the top is not one of the flat recessed, I stlll make the cut like the other one. Keep cutting until you start cutting into the brass plunger valve. Then take a medium flathead screw driver, place the tip into the slot you just cut, and start prying the stainless steel top off. Again, once you get the top off, the rest is easy.
Last edited by wayne1956; 04-05-2022 at 01:14 AM.
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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I use the 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 1/16" thick cutoff wheel to make the cuts. Brass is generally a lead alloy so i'm mindful that the dust probably isn't good to breathe in or get on your skin. Work outdoors, wear coveralls, gloves, mask, safety glasses and so on.
Most of the pressure relief valves i've seen are tapped 3/4" NPT. Next time around ... i'm gonna experiment with threading in a scrap piece of 3/4" black iron pipe in as a way of getting a firm handle on it. Next use perforated strap to fasten the handle securely to the workbench. That way my hands will be on the ankle grinder and not on the piece i'm trying to cut.
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As brass is a relatively soft metal I have had no problems with holding the relief body with my left hand and the angle grinder with my right. Like you I use the 4 1/2 grinder.
Metal Recycling Entrepreneur
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It's all good. Whatever works best for you is fine. We all have our own ways of doing things. What works for one might not work well for another. We're all on our own here so the way somebody else does the job is not for me to judge. It's not my place.
I was in construction for decades. It's risky work .... one of the ten most dangerous jobs in America. It's not unusual to lose a finger or two over the years. I had a couple of close calls myself. Lost the use of my right thumb for about a year when it got into an argument with a table saw.
Lol .... i could just picture one of my mentors from back in the day .... kindly laughing at me from the grave.
He always said " Hills ... if you're gonna be dumb ... you gotta be tough !" ( Pain is a good teacher. )
Anyhow ... i always try to secure my work before i start cutting these days. You get the knack of it after awhile and then it just becomes a work habit. I've got a pipe vise from back when i was plumbing so i tend to use that a lot when i'm scrapping red metals. Figured perforated strapping, a couple of drywall screws, and a board would be a cheap alternative that would do the job of securing the piece you wanted to work on. It's only a couple of bucks.
It's just job safety.
Last edited by hills; 04-06-2022 at 07:55 AM.
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